Route 9: The Pauline Route

Distance: 15km
Duration: 3.5 hours
Difficulty: Difficult

This route traces some of the main locations associated with the Pauline cult in Malta. The story of St Paul’s shipwreck in Malta is documented in the Acts of the Apostles (Acts: Chapters 27-28), and while most historians consider the event to be historically true, a lot of legends arose around St Paul’s visit. Although it is very likely that St Paul represents Malta’s first contact with Christianity, the claim for an immediate conversion of even a small population of the island cannot as yet be substantiated. It has however formed the basis of much of Malta’s Christian heritage, and St Paul remains a key figure in Maltese culture.

The route has fewer stops than usual, and most of it is (thankfully) through countryside, making it an ideal walk. There are a few uphills and downhills, so not recommended for the total beginner. Also stock up on water!

1. Għajn Rażul, St Paul’s Bay
The pilgrimage starts in St Paul’s Bay – the traditional location for St Paul’s shipwreck in Malta in 60 A.D. The first point on the pilgrimage route is Għajn Rażul (lit. The Apostle’s Fountain) which according to tradition was the place where St Paul struck on a rock and water gushed out to quench the thirst of the survivors. Before buildings started choking up the bay, one would have been able to see St Paul’s Islands across the bay from here. These were the islands where St Paul’s ship supposedly got shipwrecked, although there has been no conclusive evidence to support this. You can read more info on this interesting little monument here.

The route then goes through St Paul’s Bay – once a charming seaside village, and now mostly ruined by ugly apartments. You could take a seaside detour by turning left at Sqaq tax-Xama’ but that is entirely optional and it might be wiser to save your energy for later.

2. Church of St Paul Shipwreck, St Paul’s Bay

The origins of this church date back to the late 13th century, although the present structure dates from the early 17th century. This was a period when the Pauline cult received a boost as part of the Order of St John’s crusading spirit. The church is located in what was considered to be the area where the survivors set up camp, and St Paul was miraculously unharmed by a viper that had gotten caught in the firewood and bit him. The massive portico attests to the importance of this church as a pilgrimage site.

The route now takes us out of St Paul’s Bay, through some of the most congested (and possibly ugliest) parts of the town. Take care when you reach the junction – even though there are pedestrian crossings, over-speeding cars are a problem here. Then take the road towards Burmarrad.

3. Church of Saint Paul Milqi, Burmarrad

The stretch of road going into Burmarrad is prone to heavy traffic so caution is needed. Once you reach the outskirts of this little hamlet, turn right on Triq Ġebel Għazzara. You will soon reach Triq San Pawl Milqi, and there is a little uphill which takes you to our next stop. This church is also part of a very important Roman archaeological site. The excavations here have yielded a Roman villa with adjacent agricultural complex. The site is traditionally considered to be the location of Publius’ villa, the local ‘chief’ mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles, whose father St Paul healed. Due to the archaeological importance of this site, the area is closed to the public and access is by special permit only.

From now onwards the route goes through some of Malta’s most beautiful countryside – although sadly not as untouched as it should be. At one point the road disappears into a small pathway, and some offroad hiking is necessary. Make sure you turn right into Triq tal-Milord towards the small hamlet of Bidnija. The Church of the Holy Family (marked on the map with an X) is not part of the Pauline itinerary, but it is a useful marker, apart from being a charming little church.

As you walk out of Bidnija, make sure you take a right turn at the Y junction towards the Shooting Range / Horse Riding (NOT towards Mġarr / Golden Bay). Keep to the main road and eventually you will need to turn left towards Żebbiegħ. You will notice Żebbiegħ from its oddly-shaped (and I’d venture to say ‘ugly’) modern church. Walk as if you are heading out of the village, and then turn right towards Mġarr. You will eventually reach a little roundabout, where you need to turn left on Binġemma Road.

After a long stretch of road, you will reach the charming church of Our Lady of Itria (marked X on the map). Once again this is not part of the Pauline route, but a great landscape-photo spot. A few metres further you will cross the Victoria Lines, a defensive wall built by the British in the late 19th century. With the exception of a few forts and batteries punctuating this wall, the whole project was objectively a colossal waste of money and totally inappropriate for modern warfare.

From here onwards make sure you stick to the main road. You should have a few bus stops, as well as two clusters of houses on the left as you walk towards Rabat. Upon reaching a large arched gateway to a private residence (on your right) keep walking straight on (do NOT turn left as that would take you towards Chadwick Lakes and away from our final destination). You will eventually reach the little hamlet of Għajn Qajjet (a few houses on the main road), before the road turns left at the outskirts of Rabat.

4. Church of St Publius (St Paul’s Grotto)

We find ourselves once more in an urban area, although the first stretch of road has some magnificent valley views to the left. Do watch out for traffic – the pavement here is mostly inexistent. Upon reaching a little opening, turn right into Triq Santa Rita. This will take us directly to our next stop – St Paul’s Grotto. Although the building in front of us looks like one church, this is in fact part of a massive ecclesiastical complex that includes the parish church of St Paul (the central buidling), burial grounds with catacombs and underground churches (to the left), and the small church of St Publius to the right which serves as the entrance to the grotto. It is here that St Paul is meant to have resided during his three months in Malta. One must bear in mind that this whole area was once just outside the walls of the city of Melite (the Roman name for Mdina). The grotto itself is well worth a visit – it does feel special regardless of what you believe.

There are many ways of reaching Mdina from here. I have chosen the quietest one which takes us across the churchyard, and into some of Rabat’s most charming streets. We eventually reach the Church of St Mark (Augustinian Priory), with its elegant boulevard in front of it leading directly towards Mdina gate.

5. Cathedral of the Conversion of St Paul, Mdina

The last few metres take us inside Malta’s old capital – its current size the result of a scaling down of the Roman civitas under Arab rule. The capital was also subject to a major rebuilding programme in the Baroque period the results of which we can admire as we walk into the walled city. The magnificent gate, the Vilhena Palace on the right as soon as we enter the gate, the exquisite church of St Agatha, and last but not least the magnificent cathedral designed by Lorenzo Gafa.

We started this pilgrimage at the place where St Paul was supposed to have been shipwrecked here in Malta (other locations around Malta have been suggested). This episode marked the last part of his extensive travels – he would eventually reach Rome where he would be tried and executed for his faith. It is fitting that we should end this pilgrimage in a church which celebrates the very beginning of that journey: his conversion on his way to Damascus. St Paul was a pilgrim like us; one of the most prolific travellers of his age. He is an extremely complex figure – both a product of his times (his views on women and sexuality stem from his puritanical Jewish upbringing) as well as an astonishing visionary (he opened up Christianity to the Gentiles).

On a very personal note: I am not a big fan of St Paul (for personal reasons too complex to get into detail here), but I can still admire his burning intellect and pilgrim spirit. We often look at saints as being perfect beings – but they were not. They were very imperfect human beings who dedicated their lives to becoming better men and women – which is what I believe we should all be doing.

Route 6: The Franciscan Route

Distance: 12.8km
Duration: 3 hours
Difficulty: Intermediate

This route follows a Franciscan path from the late medieval convent of St Francis belonging to the Franciscan Conventuals in Rabat (next to the Santo Spirito archives) all the way to to the Conventual Church of St Francis in Valletta. Along the route we pass several Marian churches – and St Francis and the Franciscans were keen promoters of Marian devotion. It also represents a move from the more rural (and more or less intact) environs of Rabat to the more congested and often polluted Inner Harbour areas. I hope that this provides a good opportunity to reflect on our ‘modernity’ – dependent on technology and detached from the natural environment…may it lead you to connect once more with the world in the way St Francis did by espousing simplicity and poverty.

1. Church of St Francis of Assisi, Rabat

Our pilgrimage starts from very ancient ground. The Franciscans set up a convent here in the late 14th century next to the older Santo Spirito hospital (the building to the left). Over the years the church and convent have gone through various transformations, and the current building owes much of its appearance to 17th century Baroque sensibilities. The church is also home to ‘Our Lady of Good Health’ which enjoys a strong following. Proceed towards Saqqajja hill, and then down the long road underneath Mdina. Take time to notice two abandoned cemeteries on the left. Once you reach the roundabout cross towards another (better-kept) Commonwealth cemetery and into Ta’ Qali. Warning: There are no pedestrian crossings here or anywhere nearby…cross the road with extra care! Enjoy the open spaces of Ta’ Qali (albeit not exactly ‘natural’ as it’s a man-made park). Once you reach Ħ’Attard the greenery disappears pretty quickly.

2. Parish Church of the Assumption, Ħ’Attard

We enter the village of Attard from Misraħ Kola – mostly terraced houses built in the 80s which are now also falling prey to the apartment blocks mania. Once we reach the Government Primary School we enter into the old village core. The elegant street leading up to the church is full of beautiful houses. The church itself, built in 1613, is one of the masterpieces of Maltese architect Tumas Dingli. We take a left and after a few turns we find ourselves following the old railway line.

3. Parish Church of the Assumption, Birkirkara

Just before the end of Old Railway Street we take a right turn at Triq Vittorio Cassar into a square. The ugliness of most of the apartment buildings is mitigated by the majestic Parish Church of the Assumption – another masterpiece by Tumas Dingli built in 1617. This building served as the main church of Birkirkara until the residents decided to build a new church on the other side of the valley. The old church was left to rot, and it was only in the 1950s that a slow (and as yet incomplete) restoration process started. You can now either go left towards Birkirkara valley, or else take a little detour (and perhaps some rest) at the Old Railway Garden adjacent to the church.

4. Church of St Francis of Assisi, Ta’ Paris, Birkirkara

We now pass through the outskirts of the old village core, and up a winding road that leads us to the next Franciscan Church, that of St Francis, also run by the Conventual Friars. This church, built in a Neo-Romanesque style, owes its origins to a little chapel which the Friars used in 1941 for war refugees fleeing from the harbour area. In 1953 they decided to build a church and convent here to serve the ever growing population of the area. Sadly, all around this area you can notice a huge increase in dull apartment blocks – soulless and characterless.

We leave Ta’ Paris to rejoin the Old Railway track once again, as it passes through Santa Venera. There is little to admire along this stretch of road – even the few interesting terraced houses are giving way to more apartment blocks. There are of course alternative routes which are ‘slightly’ more interesting, but perhaps that is exactly the problem nowadays – we try to avoid facing reality a little bit too much.

5. Church of St Francis of Assisi, Il-Ħamrun

We reach the end of Old Railway Track and have to cross a busy junction into Ħamrun – exercise caution when crossing! A few blocks down we reach the oddly neglected church of St Francis, built by the Franciscan Minors in 1952. It is a curious and in many ways fascinating building – a mixture of latent Art Deco traits and (I use the word carefully here) – Post-Modernist elements (look at that Greek pediment sitting uncomfortably on top of the facade!).

6. Parish Church of the Immaculate Conception, Il-Ħamrun

The road then leads us to another post-war church – the Parish Church of the Immaculate Conception which was built in the sixties. This is another odd piece of architecture – classicising elements squeezed in between two modern(ist) buildings. It also has a characteristic that sends my OCD on tilt – the actual church lies at about a 30′ angle from the facade, resulting in a skewed floor plan and a triangular vestibule.

The route now turns left and we descend towards Pietà – a relatively quiet stretch until we reach St Joseph school and turn right to the busy road leading towards Valletta. Although this should technically be a drab stretch of road, but once you reach the tree lined path on the left side of the road, it is actually quite pleasant.

7. Church of the Immaculate Conception, (aka Ta’ Sarria), Il-Furjana

We now reach the last stretch as we enter the suburb of Floriana. We pass the majestic Portes des Bombes, then left turn towards the Mall. There are several striking buildings around us, but the Church of Sarria (present structure built in 1675) is a true little gem. It also houses a fantastic set of paintings by Mattia Preti.

8. Parish Church of Saint Publius, Floriana

A few metres down the road we reach the Granaries, dominated by the Parish Church of St Publius. The original church was built in 1733 but was subsequently enlarged in the 19th century. It has many treasures including a spectacular vault by Emvin Cremona.

You can proceed to Valletta either by walking along The Mall or else through it – and appreciate its many beautiful monuments. We will also pass by Antonio Sciortino’s masterpiece of Christ the King (in front of Phoenicia Hotel) and Vincenzo Apap’s spectacular Triton Fountain, before we reach City Gate.

9. Church of St Francis of Assisi, Valletta

We now reach our final destination – the Church of St Francis of Assisi Valletta. This church was built in 1681 and then enlarged in the 1920s. Despite the architectural incongruences (the dome sits uncomfortably on a series of arches that are not aligned to the original vault) – it is still a beautiful space housing works by Preti and Cali (the stupendous ‘Glory of St Francis’ his largest canvas) among others.

Route 4: The Seven St Marys (2)

Distance: 12km
Duration: 3 hours*
Difficulty: Intermediate

*If you are walking this during the Santa Marija feast allow 5 hours so that you can enjoy the sights and sounds of Ħal Għaxaq, Il-Gudja, L-Imqabba, and Il-Qrendi which will be all lit up for the festa. The ideal dates would be on the eve (14th August) when you can admire the fireworks that light up all of Malta, or on the feast day (15th August) where you can admire the solemn processions.

1 – Church of the Assumption, Ħal Tarxien (Tar-Rokna)

We start our pilgrimage at one of the many small churches dedicated to the Assumption that are dotted around the island. This little gem (which was featured in Route 1 posted on this blog) is an ideal starting point if you want to slowly build up your pilgrimage experience. Although it is open during Santa Marija, and even has some very basic decorations on the facade and parvis, it is a very quiet start to the route.

From here you can proceed towards Żejtun by crossing over towards Bulebel Industrial Estate (Warning: Use the pedestrian lights to cross the busy Triq San Anard). The path then goes through fields to reach the outskirts of Żejtun, and one straight road towards the parish church of St Catherine in Żejtun, a splendid Baroque temple started in 1692 to plans by Lorenzo Gafá, dubbed (with good reason) the Cathedral of the South.

Just before you get to the church, take time to admire the many beautiful Baroque palazzos and the beautiful Church of the Holy Spirit that line up Triq Santa Katarina. This street was right on the old St Gregory’s pilgrimage route, and hence it was prime real estate. Once arrived in front of the parish church, take a right, and walk all the way to the next church on our pilgrimage. Take time to admire the many magnificent buildings including the imposing Casa Daniel and the Church of St Angelo the Martyr.

2 – Church of the Assumption, Iż-Żejtun

Tucked away in the corner of Misraħ Santa Marija lies another small church dedicated to the Assumption, known locally as Tal-Ħlass (ħlas in this case refers to birthing, and it seems like babies were buried in its ground). Sadly, this church is rarely open.

The route now goes south towards Bir id-Deheb, passing by the new Church of Our Lady of Sorrows known as Tal-Ħniena. This church is an odd creation, with a disproportionate Neo-Baroque facade, a squarish plan at the back, and the old church placed sideways in between!

Warning: use pedestrian lights to cross into Ħal Għaxaq. It is a straight road towards our fist major church.

3 – Parish Church of the Assumtion, Ħal Għaxaq

This is one of the most under-rated and unjustly neglected gems. Built in 1723 to plans by Sebastiano Saliba, it is magnificent temple. The interior is no less impressive boasting a wealth of paintings by the likes of Francesco Zahra, GianNikol Buhagiar, Gianni Vella, and Emvin Cremona, as well as the beautiful statue of the Assumption by Mariano Gerada.

Take the side street to the left of the church, and go through the old village core until you reach the Għaxaq by-pass. From here you will go through some quiet modern urban suburbs until you reach the outskirts of Gudja. Eventually you will reach Triq San Ċiru which takes you right in front of the next church.

Festa: If you are there during festa time take your time to appreciated the effect of walking up Triq Santa Marija with all its festa decorations, reaching a colourful climax in the main square. You might also want to take a short detour by going straight on towards Pjazza Santu Rokku, and then turning left to reach the Għaxaq by-pass and continue along the main route.

4. Parish Church of the Assumption, Il-Gudja

Looks can be deceiving. The post-war facade might give the impression that this is a huge imposing church, but behind it lies a 17th century gem designed by Tumas Dingli. It also has the distinction of being the only Maltese church with three bell towers, after a third tower was erected in 1858 to a design by William Baker. The church is also rich in artistic treasures including works by Pietro Gagliardi and Domenico Bruschi.

The route then proceeds along the right-hand side of the church, and into the newer areas of Gudja. A gentle down hill then takes you right to the outskirts to the old parish church of Bir Miftuħ.

Festa: Gudja has a very particular set-up, with the village celebrating two secondary feasts in October. For years the titular feast was sidelined, although in recent years there has been a greater effort at celebrating it with the appropriate pomp. Although not the most extravagant of festas, there is still much to enjoy.

5 – Church of the Assumption, Bir Miftuħ

It is hard to imagine that this secluded church was once the centre of one of the largest parishes in medieval Malta. The present church is a much reduced building (you can still see the original footprint at the back of the church), but remains one of the most important late medieval churches in Malta, with elegant pointed arches and traces of frescoes inside. It is unlikely that you will find it open as it is opened only on the first Sunday of every month. However, it certainly merits a visit in its own right.

The stress of modern life will soon greet you as you exit unto the main road. The next stretch is both ugly and dangerous, so take extra caution. The landscape does not improve much until you reach Triq Valletta on the outskirts of Mqabba. As you walk all the way past the airport and through the tunnel (underneath the airport’s runway), do reflect on how our ‘modern’ lifestyle has pushed the act of walking to the side, often obliging us to use mechanised transport.

6 – Parish Church of the Assumption, L-Imqabba

The route deliberately avoids the Mqabba-Qrendi bypass which is bland and at points dangerous. Instead we go through the old village core where one can still admire some beautiful vernacular architecture. The small parish church dominates the village core. Although not as artistically rich as the other big churches on this route (it was badly hit during WWII), several recent restoration projects have helped in its rehabilitation.

Festa: Mqabba (together with Qrendi) is one of the most famous centres for fireworks, and in all fairness both merit a stop in their own right. You might want to get to Qrendi and then return to Mqabba, or stop here (obviously it wouldn’t be a ‘7’ St Marys pilgrimage in that case). From a purely subjective point of view I always find Qrendi’s fireworks to be the more ostentatious, whereas Mqabba is wonderfully ingenious.

The by-pass is unavoidable, but if we exit Mqabba past the beautiful church of St Catherine, we only need worry about the by-pass for a few metres. A sharp right takes us to another Church of St Catherine (known as Tat-Torba) – a sign of how widespread the devotion towards this saint is. We can now enter Qrendi from the old village core as well. It is worth comparing the two villages – Mqabba has a slightly more genteel feel to it, whereas Qrendi has a homelier feel.

7 – Parish Church of the Assumption, Il-Qrendi

We finish our pilgrimage with another hidden gem – a miniature masterpiece by Lorenzo Gafá started in 1685. One of the most impressive features is the way Gafá creates the impression of grandeur, when in reality this is a rather small edifice. Despite its size it contains several impressive works of art, including a splendid altarpiece of St Stephen by Stefano Erardi.

Festa: There is much to admire here but fireworks remain at the top of the list. Just like Mqabba before, the Qrendin are renowned for the aerial fireworks which are given off from the other side of the valley, making for an impressive backdrop.

Santu Kristu – the vow

Jekk trid taqra dan l-artiklu bil-Malti agħfas hawn.

I made a vow on the chapel of Santu Kristu*, and those of you who know anything about it, know that you cannot rescind on such vows very easily. The vow was a simple one – as soon as I finish my studies I will do the Camino of Santiago de Compostela. It was a wish that had been there for years. I was about to do it ten years ago, but it was not yet time. But now the time is ripe, and I made that vow about six years ago.

Let me be clear. I have not made a vow as some form of exchange. You know, “help me and I’ll do a little walk for you”. Nothing of the sort, for as the saying goes ‘God will help you only if you help yourself’. Nowadays everything has become so easy (press a button, visit a website, phone a number…) that we have even reduced God to some wondrous grace-giving machine. And if we don’t have our way, we start cursing him that he helped others and not us…as if God is some form of vending machine, and if we kick him he’ll somehow work better.

No, a vow is not some form of divine contract. A vow is a long confession – ‘help me because I cannot do this alone’. And now that I have finished my studies, that leaden question weighs on my shoulders: ‘Where to now? How am I going to turn all I have learnt and worked for into something positive for others? Or am I to dig an intellectual pit and let myself be buried under all I have learnt? And so, I vowed to do the Camino. I am here because others have helped me – now it’s my turn to help others.

But first, an important prologue.

Before I start walking I will visit Naples – more precisely to visit the tomb of St Cajetan. Once more, an old dream, but as always, it was not yet time. I do not just want to see his tomb (to be honest, that is more a sign of respect than anything else), but the city where he worked and died.

Brackets: Saint Cajetan was born to a noble family from Vicenza, and studied to become a lawyer. He had the whole world at his feet – and then came the moment of crisis and he renounced everything and chose poverty and to work for the destitute and the sick.

That is what walking does to you, it makes you look, and think. The more I walk, the more I realise certain things. Some have called me ‘negative’ – because I denounce all that is ugly both on the outside and the inside. Could be. But I’d invite you to start walking, and maybe you will see what I see.

Out there, beyond the walls of our tiny abodes, and the stuffiness of those metal boxes on wheels that take us from one abode to the next, in the real world that uses no algorithms and does not let you choose what to see, out there are lots of things that should worry us.

For if we are chopping trees to widen roads, it’s because there is no one to walk under the shade of boughs. If we are building on every scrap of land, it is because we have forgotten how to till the fields. If the air is heavy with dust and smoke, it is because we have locked ourselves inside our homes full of chemical products and air purifies.

And thus, I made a vow on Santu Kristu – to find the strength to reach out beyond the comfort of my own home, and see the world for what it is. And for those who know anything about it, you cannot rescind on such vows very easily.

*Santu Kristu

The small church of Santu Kristu lies at the top of a hill in Ħal Għaxaq. The origins of the story go something like this: In 1766 a certain Mikelanġ Zammit was moved by a sermon, and vehemently vowed to build a niche dedicated to Christ the Redeemer on the top of the mentioned hill. But with time his enthusiasm waned, and he forgot all about it, until one day he was going up the hill with his carriage, and as soon as he reached the top he lost control of the horse and was thrown off. When he got up and realised he was unhurt, he remembered his vow and duly fulfilled it. A church was eventually built there in 1859, and stands as a reminder that vows are not to be taken lightly.

Route 2: St Gregory’s Pilgrimage

Distance: 17km (20km if you include the final extra journey to St Thomas Bay)
Duration: 4hrs (add another 30min for the extra part)
Difficulty: Intermediate

The origins of the annual St Gregory’s pilgrimage are shrouded in mystery, with various dates and possible motivations proposed. The first secure reference comes from 1543 when Bishop Cubelles called for an annual pilgrimage on the 12th of March (the old feast day for Pope St Gregory). In the past this used to involve all the Confraternities from all the Malta parishes, as well as the Mdina Cathedral Chapter. The Cathedral Chapter would leave from Mdina and meet all the others at Tarxien Parish Church and from there they would all walk to St Gregory’s Church in Żejtun.

Nowadays, the pilgrimage is held on the first Wednesday after Easter, and it is a small affair leaving from the small Church of St Clement in Żejtun. This pilgrimage route is an attempt to revive that tradition with a proper pilgrimage leaving from Mdina and passing by some of Malta’s most important churches. The route is listed as ‘Intermediate’ for despite its length, it is mostly downhill.

1. Cathedral of the Conversion of St Paul, Mdina

This route departs from the island’s prime church in Mdina. This makes this particular starting point not only a spectacular one, but also convenient since it is easily accessible by public transport. Take some time to admire the beautiful Baroque architecture of the Cathedral, designed in the late 17th century by Lorenzo Gafa.

2. Church of Saint Agatha, Mdina

A few metres away from the Cathedral, as you are exiting Mdina, lies the small church of St Agatha. I have included this in the itinerary because St Agatha is one of the island’s three patron saints (along with St Paul and St Publius). This Sicilian saint enjoys a strong cult in the Rabat area that has its roots in Medieval times.

Once you are out of Mdina, you can start the long descent towards Ħaż-Żebbuġ by going down a part of Saqqajja Hill. Warning: this stretch of road is treacherous, but you will soon be able to come off it by going down Triq it-Tiġrija (Race Street), so named because horse racing has been held on special feast days along this road. You can still see the Loggia at the top of the street, once reserved for the Grand Master and local dignitaries.

This is now followed by a long and beautiful road across the countryside – a rarity in Malta nowadays. Although this road is relatively quiet, some still hang on to the racing tradition by driving at breakneck speed, so always be on your guard. You will eventually reach the outskirts of Ħaż-Żebbuġ, but not without passing by the Gianpula Club, and the Ħaż-Żebbuġ cemetery.

3. Church of Our Lady of Graces, Ħaż-Żebbuġ

Upon reaching Ħaż-Żebbuġ, you should take Triq tal-Grazzja, which is one of the main streets traversing the old village core. On your right you will pass by the small Church of Our Lady of Grace. This little church is still much beloved by the local community, and even gets its own little festa in late September. You can then proceed towards the parish church in the village centre.

4. Parish Church of Saint Philip of Agira, Ħaż-Żebbuġ

This magnificent church is one of the oldest parish churches in Malta, and is mentioned as early as 1436. The dedication is also curious: St Philip (not to be confused with the Apostle of the same name) is a minor Siclian saint whose cult is centred in Agira. The presence of his cult in Malta is evidence of Malta’s historic links with the neighbouring island. If you are lucky enough to find the church open, take time to admire its beautifully sculpted altars, and the statue of Saint Philip which has the distinction of being Malta’s only devotional statue made from solid silver.

5. Church of Saint Roque, Ħaż-Żebbuġ

You can walk a little further until you reach Triq il-Kbira (Main Street), which leads you out of Ħaż-Żebbuġ. Along the way you pass by the beautiful church of Saint Roque, built in 1593 following an outbreak of the plage. St Roque was the saint popularly invoked against the plague and he enjoyed a strong cult up until the mid-19th century when the plague had all but died out. Walking further you will find De Rohan Gate: a triumphal arch built in 1797 to commemorate the elevation of the village to a ‘city’ by Grand Master De Rohan in 1777. From here you need to cross the busy road (pedestrian lights available), and proceed towards Tal-Ħlas

6. Church of the Assumption ‘Tal-Ħlas’, Ħal Qormi

This beautiful church was once a very important pilgrimage church, as witnessed by the porticos on either side of the church parvis. The appellation ‘Tal-Ħlas’ has two possible meanings – either ‘ransom’ (a reference to the ransom of slaves) or ‘childbirth’ (a reference to the many prayers offered for deliverance during the risky business of childbirth). From here you can start the descent towards Ħal Qormi, which takes you to the new housing estate of Ta’ Farsina, and then down to the old village core.

7. Parish Church of St George, Ħal Qormi

This is another of Malta’s medieval parish (there are still some relics of the old medieval church in the new edifice and the adjacent parish museum). The facade is a beautiful example of Maltese Renaissance architecture. Going up along Triq il-Kbira (Main Street) takes you through the beautiful village core.

8. Church of St Francis, Ħal Qormi

Although this church is popularly known as St Francis, it is not dedicated to the more popular St Francis of Assisi, but St Francis de Paule patron saint of mariners. Back in the days when most people plied their trade at sea, this saint enjoyed a great cultic following. The church, recently restored, is a miniature gem of Maltese Baroque architecture. Keep walking up along the main street, and you will reach the Eastern end of the village.

9. Old Parish Church of St Sebastian, Ħal Qormi

St Sebastian is another saint invoked against the plague, and his cult received fresh impetus after the plague of 1813 which hit Ħal Qormi particularly badly. By 1889 this little church had been built and a community flourished in this end of the village, and by 1936 a new parish was formed.

10. Parish Church of St Sebastian, Ħal Qormi

The new parish church is a stone’s throw away from the old church. Plans for a new church were drawn in 1937, as soon as the new parish had been set up. Although the building suffered a lot of delays, mostly because of the Second World War, the imposing building was completed by the 1980s. You can still admire the Art Deco aesthetic, making it a unique example of its kind in Malta.

Once you leave this church you will have to proceed towards the Marsa Sports Grounds. This is the least scenic part of this route, and be sure to use the pedestrian crossings to go to the other side. Upon reaching the bus terminus, you can walk through the Marsa Sports Grounds – a welcome breath of fresh air in this overbuilt (and badly built) area. Make sure you use the overpass to cross into Albert Town until you reach the junction near Addolorata Cemetery. From there you can enter Paola from Triq l-Arkata (Arch Street). This is the only tough ascent along this route.

11. Church of Saint Ubaldesca, Paola

The tough uphill is rewarded with the charming square that is dominated by the church of St Ubaldesca. This obscure female saint is a testament to the 17th century origins of Paola, which was founded by Grand Master Antoine de Paule (hence the name Paola). The original church, built in 1630, was much smaller. The present structure is an extension built in 1900. You can still see the extent of the original church at the back of the edifice.

12. Parish Church of Christ the King, Paola

A few blocks away lies the modern heart of Paola, dominated by the imposing church dedicated to Christ the King built to the plans of Ġuże Damato. This church has witnessed a remarkable transformation in recent years, with several important maintenance and embellishment programmes, as well as pastoral and community projects, that have made it a role model for a contemporary parish. From here you can proceed towards Ħal Tarxien by walking along the street that bears the village name.

13. Parish Church of the Annunciation, Ħal Tarxien

The route approaches this beautiful Baroque Church from behind, so do take your time to admire the impressive facade. Particularly interesting are the two bell towers with conical spires, a rare feature in Maltese ecclesiastical architecture. In the past, this was the church from which the St Gregory procession with all the Confraternities used to start. The remaining route will retrace that same path. One hopes that in the near future this procession is revived in its original form.

14. Church of St Bartholomew, Ħal Tarxien

The pilgrimage route passes through the old village core which was dominated by the parish church on one end, and this beautiful Baroque church at the other end. Evidence of the importance of this street can be found in the surrounding palaces (such as Palazzo Abela right in front of the church). As you leave the old village core, you will pass by Villa Barbaro, a rare surviving example of a country palace predating the Great Siege of 1565. From here onwards it is a straight route towards Bulebel Industrial Estate. A little detour to cross the busy Triq San Anard (St Leonard Street) using the pedestrian lights is highly recommended. Despite the route going through an Industrial Estate, the road is surprisingly inoffensive. You will eventually reach the southern end of Żejtun.

15. Church of the Holy Spirit, Żejtun

The mild uphill takes you right towards Żejtun village core, and past the charming church dedicated to the Holy Spirit. The present church is the result of late 18th century modifications. The original 17th century church faced the parallel Triq San Luċjan (Saint Lucian Street). It is worth remembering that up until the 18th century, the parish church of Żejtun was the church of St Gregory (which back then was dedicated to St Catherine, and which is the final destination of this pilgrimage route). When the present church of St Catherine was built, the main route into the village from Ħal Tarxien changed slightly, and the reorientation of this church reflects that new route.

16. Parish Church of St Catherine, Żejtun

This magnificent Baroque temple was designed by Lorenzo Gafà, architect of the Mdina Cathedral that formed the start of this pilgrimage route. The building fully deserves its honorific title of ‘Cathedral of the South’. Approaching this church from the narrow Triq Santa Katerina (St Catherine Street), as is the case in this route, plays on the Baroque sense of urban drama, as the pilgrim stumbles on the monumental building. The final part of the journey takes you along the aptly named Triq San Girgor (St Gregory Street), along one of the most elegant streets in Malta. The Neo-Romanesque Church of Jesus of Nazareth and Convent are worth admiring along the way.

17. Church of St Gregory, Żejtun

The final destination is the late Medieval church of St Gregory. The low dome, enclosed parvis, and adjacent cemetery are a rare example of an intact Medieval sacred space (despite several later interventions). The church itself, with its low-vaulted pointed arches, is one of my personal favourite sacred spaces in Malta.

The extra mile…

The pilgrimage of St Gregory is traditionally the first swim of the season in Malta. You can take the long downhill along Triq id-Daħla ta’ San Tumas (St Thomas Bay Road) until you reach St Thomas Bay and reward yourself with a swim in the crystal clear waters.

Route 1: The Seven St Marys (1)

Distance: 17.7km
Duration: 4hrs 15min
Difficulty: Advanced

In the past it was common to visit seven churches dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin, whose feast falls on the 15th of August. This most important of feasts marks the culmination of the summer season, and it seems a good place to start for what I hope to be a series of short pilgrimage routes that can be made in Malta. If you follow this pilgrimage route in the week leading up to the feast you will also have the added benefit of walking through richly decorated streets. This remains a special route to me because it was my first official pilgrimage route in preparation for the Camino de Santiago.

Note

This route takes you through seven churches dedicated to St Mary, but there are plenty more. There are the seven official ones spread across Malta (making it an impractical pilgrimage route, especially if you do it on the feast day proper). There are other possible routes, and in the future I will present alternative routes.

1 – Basilica of the Assumption, Mosta

Not only is this one of the more important churches in Malta, its magnificent architecture make it a memorable start. Do take time to visit the church – a short moment of silence can go along way before a long journey! Then take Eucharistic Congress street in front of the church, and out towards Ħ’Attard, taking time to admire the beautiful houses on each side.

Festa

If you are lucky to be there in mid August, take time to admire the beautiful 19th century decorations around the massive piazza, most of which are in papier-maché by Carlo Darmanin. Particularly delightful is the small group of three putti holding the monogram ‘MA’ (Maria Assumpta) on main street just off the main square.

If you follow the map you will reach the Pama Shopping centre – take a right on Triq Pantar. Warning – this stretch of road is dangerous with no pavement. You will then reach the outskirts of Ħ’Attard. This end of the village does not make for a terribly exciting walk, but once you reach the far end of Triq il-Mosta, you will be rewarded with one of the most charming villages in central Malta. This street takes you right in front of the parish church.

2 – Parish Church of the Assumption, Ħ’Attard

Unlike the majestic (and overwhelming) Rotunda of Mosta, this church is a beautiful late Renaissance masterpiece by Tumas Dingli. Take time to admire its richly decorated facade, and if it is open, the harmonious interior. Following the map, you will eventually reach Triq il-Linja (Railway Street) which follows part of the old railway tracks up until the crossroads with Triq l-Imrieħel. Although you could follow the path of the old tracks a little longer, the little detour marked on the map means that you approach the next stop from the front, to great dramatic effect.

Festa

If you happen to be there during the festa season, the route takes you through Triq il-Mosta and Triq Anton Schembri, which have the bulk of festa decorations. Enjoy passing through the triumphal arch as you make your way out of the church!

3 – Parish Church of the Assumption, Birkirkara

The next stop is another wonderful late Renaissance gem by Tumas Dingli. The church seems oddly placed in the midst of mostly post-1980s buildings, and the building seems almost derelict. This was the old parish church of Birkirkara, before the bigger Basilica of St Helen was built on the other side of the valley in the 18th century. For many years the church was abandoned, and it was only in recent decades, when a new residential quarter arose in the vicinity, that it was restored. The interior is bare, but worth admiring if you are lucky to find the church open.

Festa

Since this is a relatively new community and parish, there are no outdoor festivities, but at least the church is more likely to be open! Admire the intricate stonework all around the church!

The old railway station lies to the left of the church, and you can proceed once again along the old railway route all the way to Ħamrun. Turning at the church of St Francis leads you towards Ħamrun’s centre. A little detour ensure you also get to pass the beautiful Baroque gem of Our Lady of Porto Salvo, and the parish church of St Cajetan. Going uphill on Duke of Edinburgh Street leads you to the next stop.

4 – Church of the Assumption, Ħamrun (aka Tas-Samra)

This beautiful 17th century church is truly a hidden gem. Rebuilt in the 17th century over the ruins of an older church dedicated to St Nicholas, the church houses a ‘black Madonna’ – Our Lady of Atocia (which is a copy of one in Madrid). This black Madonna gave the church the nickname ‘Tas-Samra’ (the Dark One). The porticoed entrance is evidence of it being a ‘pilgrimage’ church, with such porticoes intended to give pilgrims some respite from the elements. The surrounding streets are the old nucleus of Ħamrun, which developed from a tiny hamlet with scattered houses to a thriving late Victorian town.

Festa

This is one of the little surprises along this route. There is a small festa complete with outdoor decorations, procession and statue of Mary ascending to heaven. Everything is on a small scale, making it a delightful stop right halfway through this pilgrimage.

This stop is followed by the least exciting part of the route as you descend towards Marsa and Albert Town. Although I have never experienced any form of harassment or bother, this area does have a reputation, and some caution is advised. However, I have often walked or cycled through these streets even late at night and never experienced anything bad or even mildly uncomfortable. You will eventually reach the busy Addolorata Cemetery junction. There are pedestrian lights, but caution is advised – many drivers still struggle to understand the difference between a red light and a green light!

Once you reach Paola, go up Triq l-Arkata where you can admire the sadly neglected Perellos Palace on the right at the lower end, and the church of Saint Ubaldesca at the top the hill. This is the old nucleus of Paola, named after Grand Master Antoine de Paule who founded the settlement in 1626. A little further up leads you to Paola’s main square with the majestic church dedicated to Christ the King. Turning left, you will start walking towards the old village of Tarxien.

5 – Church of the Assumption, Ħal Tarxien (aka tar-Rokna)

This wonderful little church was originally probably called Santa Maria della Rocca (i.e. built on a rocky outcrop) but the term got corrupted to ‘tar-Rokna’ (on the corner / in an alley ). It is a beautiful little church complete with its own little parvis, a dome, and two small bell towers.

Festa

Believe it or not this church has its own little festa (generally held on the Sunday after the 15th of August). It is a small affair – an outdoor meal with entertainment, but it is a beautiful expression of community unity.

You will now proceed towards the two final important stages – Gudja and Ħal Għaxaq. WARNING: This is the most dangerous part of your walk – crossing the Tal-Barrani bypass to go to the other side is a feat. You have to use the traffic lights system at the junction with Triq San Anard (the main road leading towards Bulebel) which were not designed for pedestrians!

Going up Triq Ħal Tarxien you will pass by the late Medieval chapel of St Lucy, and eventually reach the beautiful Palazzo Bettina. Keep going straight on into Gudja, past the church of Saint Catherine, until you reach the main square.

6 – Parish Church of the Assumption, Gudja

The parish church dominates the small piazza. The facade is a relatively recent addition, but the rest is another beautiful 17th century edifice designed by Tumas Dingli. If the church is open it is well worth a visit.

Festa

Gudja’s feast is the least popular of the major feasts of the Assumption being celebrated around Malta & Gozo, which is a pity given that it is a charming village with huge potential. There has been a small revival over recent years, and the decorations in the main square are being slowly upgraded.

Taking the narrow road in front of the church you will find yourself in the newer parts of the village and eventually in the outskirts of Ħal Għaxaq. Crossing the Ħal Għaxaq bypass you will find yourself next to the exquisite porticoed church of St Philip Neri, and a few meters away you will reach St Roque’s square. Taking the road in front of the statue, you will pass by the ‘Seashell House’ – a beautiful example of vernacular design, until you reach your final destination.

7. Parish Church of the Assumption, Ħal Għaxaq

The magnificent Baroque church of the Assumption dominates the beautiful village square. The interior not only houses Mariano Gerada’s sculptural masterpiece from 1808 depicting the Assumption of the Virgin, but also great works of art by the likes of Gian Nicola Buhagiar, Francesco Zahra, Giuseppe Vella, and Emvin Cremona.

Festa

The grandiose church is complimented by beautiful decorations, including statues by Vincenzo Cremona and Carlo Darmanin from the 19th century. The towering group depicting the Coronation of the Virgin is the jewel in the crown. Worthy of note are the fireworks displays, especially those held on the eve of the festa.

This represents the end of this pilgrimage route. If you walk down Triq Santa Marija towards Żejtun you will reach Bir id-Deheb and from there you can get buses back to Valletta. There are also buses on the Ħal Għaxaq bypass (which you would have crossed coming from Gudja), but these might be less frequent.

Taħsbuni miġnun…

If you would like to read this article in English click here

Taħsbuni miġnun. Intom u għaddejjin ġewwa l-kaxxi tal-azzar li ssejħu ‘karozzi’ – taħsbuni miġnun miexi waħdi. Kultant nammetti – inħossni konxju, speċjalment meta nkun għaddej f’xi triq prinċipali fejn bankini ma jeżistux. Sakemm narakom hemm maqfulin ġol-gaġeġ lussużi tagħkom, indannati u mgħaġġlin…u jgħaddili.

Tiħdux għalikom iżda nixtieq kultant niġbdilkom vidjow u taraw daqxejn kif tkunu. Uċuh griżi, għajnejn imberrqin, u b’dik il-ħarsa mgħaġġla hekk kif tiġru minn ċella għall-oħra. Iva – djarna tal-konkos, ir-ristoranti lussużi, il-ħwienet imburġati affarjiet…mhumiex ħlief ċelel.

Għalhekk nimxi, għax irrid naħrab mill-ħabs illi bnejna għalina nfusna.

Għadni ma ħrabtx għal kollox tafux…xorta bil-mowbajl f’idi indur u niġbed ir-ritratti u ntellagħhom online. Forsi vizzju…u forsi x-xewqa li naqsam dak li qed nara magħkom, forsi ma tafx kif, taħarbu miċ-ċella tagħkom intom ukoll. Forsi ma nibqax nimxi waħdi…

Tridu tifhmu għalfejn tlifna l-ibliet u rħulha tagħna? Tafu għalxiex id-djar tagħna waqgħu f’idejn l-iżviluppatur? Għalfejn il-pjazez u l-bankini marru għand ir-ristoranti u l-kafeteriji? Għalfejn it-toroq tagħna huma biss parkeġġ bla tmiem?

Għaliex abbandunajna l-mixi, u pajjiżna m’għadux tagħna. Tgħaddi minn ġot-toroq il-Ħadd filgħodu (jew wara nofsinhar jew filgħaxija) u baħħ totali. U dan fil-jiem sbieħ tar-Rebbiegħa! Anke x-xatt ta’ tas-Sliema – tarahom mill-karozza għar-ristorant u lura. Żewġ passi, u daqshekk jgħejjew.

Nagħmilkom tgħiduli, ‘X’int tgħid? Ix-Xatt mimli jkun! U mort sal-irdumijiet ta’ Ħad-Dingli u tgħidx kemm rajt nies jimxu!’

Iva vera, iżda ara kemm minnhom huma Maltin. Tagħrafhom lill-Maltin. Il-karozza dejjem viċin…u ġeneralment iġorru l-kċina, s-salott, u l-kamra tas-sodda magħhom. Għax hekk tgħallimna. Issa li aħna Indipendenti – eee issa għandna l-affarjiet tagħna! U biex nuri kemm huma ‘tiegħi’ l-affarjiet, inġorr kollox miegħi. Ma jmurx tal-karozza ta’ ħdejja jarawni bla mejda, u siġġijiet, u dixxijiet, u tazzi tal-plastik, u platti tal-plastik, u boroż tal-plastik…

Plastik…nofsu jispiċċa barra…

U jien għaddej waħdi miexi. Jekk niekol, waqt li miexi. Jekk nixrob, waqt li miexi. U jekk nitbissem…għax miexi.

Taħsbuni miġnun…

The First Step

Jekk trid taqra dan l-artiklu bil-Malti agħfas hawn.

There are many reasons for a pilgrimage. Some do it for religious reasons, others for spiritual reasons, and many for the sheer joy of walking. Pilgrimage might seem an anachronistic activity, particularly in today’s ‘progressive’ Western world. And yet, statistics show otherwise.

For example, over the past twenty years the number of pilgrims doing the Camino has risen from a mere 20,000 to over 300,000 per year. And it’s not just the Camino – there are many other pilgrimage routes one can take. Some take weeks, others can take a couple of hours of your life. Because for the pilgrim it is neither time nor distance that matter but intent.

I have no problems saying that a greater part of it for me is spiritual. I do not expect some great spiritual awakening – I believe that Faith is much harder work than going for a long walk. But it is the joy of rediscovering the world through one’s feet, and being thankful for it. I also wanted to engage with that most basic form of transportation, the one that pushed the human race out of Africa thousands of years ago and led us, for better or worse, to where we are today.

And the need to walk has never been so more pressing and more radical than it is today. As the planet faces a climactic meltdown, and as people become more and more absorbed in an unreal and isolated digital world, walking becomes a basic means of rebellion and salvation.

It is rebellious because walking defies traffic systems, and does not rely on technology or maps. It is also a source of salvation because it has negligible environmental impact and enormous health benefits, both physical and psychological. Whether it is walking alone or in company, it is ultimately about carrying your own weight in the world.

But a pilgrimage is not just any walk. It is walking with a purpose and a destination. Some might think that a pilgrimage is about penance or supplication, but it is not. It is about an act that we have almost completely forgotten in today’s world: thankfulness. Upon completing a pilgrimage, no matter how short, the feeling is one of gratitude and joy.

But there is a dark side.

Pilgrimages make you face the world. It forces you to face outwards and inwards. You get to meet strangers, and see dark impoverished corners of the world. Then there are moments of loneliness, where you will have to face your demons – and they do not make terribly great hiking companions. Walking makes you feel small.

Cars parked on the church parvis.
Church of St Anthony, Għajn Dwieli, Paola

I also hail from a country not exactly known for its sporting prowess – Malta is one of the laziest and fattest countries in Europe, if not the world. Rather ironic, given that the country is so small. You could cross the whole country on foot in one day.

I hope that through this simple blog you too will rediscover the joy of walking – whatever your reasons for it. I will post about routes, places & spaces, and ideas. I will also try to translate all content in Maltese as well, so it will be accessible to all.