• Distance: 12km
• Duration: 3hrs
• Difficulty: Intermediate

This pilgrimage route starts off from the Church of Christ the Redeemer (aka Santu Kristu) in Ħal Għaxaq – a spot that has particular importance for this whole pilgrimage project and which you can read about here. It will take you through the beautiful villages of Ħal Għaxaq, Il-Gudja, L-Imqabba, and then to the outskirts of Siġġiewi. It will take you from the Redeemer Church (traditionally Christ carrying the cross) all the way up to the cross perched high on a hill. You can live this experience in many ways, either by looking at the religious symbolism of going up the Calvary, a more philosophical approach to life’s uphill struggles, or simply enjoy the walk. The only taxing part is the uphill climb towards the Laferla Cross (aka L-Għolja tas-Salib) – but you will be rewarded with spectacular views.

1. Church of Christ the Redeemer (Santu Kristu), Ħal Għaxaq

The pilgrimage starts off from Santu Kristu – a beautiful 19th century country church that started off as a vow. The short version of the story tells of how a certain Mikelanġ Zammit vowed to build a niche (there are different variations as to how that resolution came about), only to have his enthusiasm wane after a while. Some time later as he was passing by the intended spot, he lost control of his horse/mule and escaped unscathed. He took that as a sign and in 1807 he erected a niche. Eventually, a church was built on the spot as devotion grew. From here walk towards Ħal Għaxaq and just before entering the village take a left. This tiny detour is worth taking as it offers a beautiful entry into the main square and offers the full impact of the next church.

2. Parish Church of the Assumption, Ħal Għaxaq

This church has featured in several of my routes – and honestly cannot get enough of it. Unlike many other Baroque churches, this church (completed in 1760 to plans by Sebastiano Saliba) does not suffer from architectural heaviness. Instead its elongated plan and high elevation are perfectly proportionate to its surroundings. Facing church, take the alleyway on the left, which meanders until you reach another square.

3. Church of St Philip Neri, Ħal Għaxaq

This little gem was built in 1761 to plans by Sebastiano Saliba, the same architect who designed the parish church we have just seen. St Philip Neri is a fascinating figure – and very important to the history of pilgrimages. He was a key player in the Counter-Reformation who advocated a new simpler approach to faith, especially among Rome’s poor. In 1548 he founded the Confraternity of the Holy Trinity to take care of the many pilgrims in Rome. Interestingly, this church possesses an elegant portico which was generally built as shelter for pilgrims – although in this case there is no evidence that it was ever a place of pilgrimage.

Take a left out of the village, and cross the by-pass. Take a moment to admire the British Semaphore Tower (one of three built in 1848) – known locally as it-Turretta. From here the road winds down towards Gudja. The area is mostly residential units from the eighties onwards. From here we can enter Gudja from Triq San Ċiru.

4. Parish Church of the Assumption, Il-Gudja

The imposing facade of the parish church emerges out of the narrow streets. Although the facade is the result of a mid-20th century extension, the rest of the church is pretty much in its original 17th century state as designed by Tumas Dingli. It is also the only church in Malta to boast three bell-towers – two on the facade, and one on its right-hand side designed by William Baker in 1858. Turn right and take the small road on the left (not the main road which leads you out of the village).

5. Church of the Annunciation, Il-Gudja

The current church is the third one to be built on this site, and dates from 1754. The church’s front door is often left open, and you can admire it from behind an internal iron gate. It is finely decorated, with a fine altarpiece by Pietro Gagliardi painted in 1871. If the church is closed, you can still admire the beautiful exterior, and the unusual single belfry above the main door.

6. Church of the Assumption, Bir Miftuħ

Keep walking straight ahead, but take a left before you leave the village proper. This street will take you towards the other end of the village, where you can take a narrow country lane towards the medieval church of Bir Miftuħ. This is possibly one of the most important sites from Late Medieval Malta, and you can find detailed information here. This was the original parish church of the area, which served several surrounding hamlets including Ħal Kirkop, Ħal Safi, l-Imqabba, and il-Gudja. The current edifice is in reality only the front nave of a much larger cross-shaped church that was dismantled some time in the early modern period. Unfortunately the church is only open on the first Sunday of each month, but well worth a visit.

From here onwards we are faced with the least attractive part of the walk, as we go onto the by-pass, and cross towards Ħal Kirkop, by means of the long and dreary tunnel underneath the airport runway. Maybe this could be an opportunity for you to reflect on the way modernity has separated whole communities through roads and runways – and relegating us into the false comforts of a virtual world.

As soon as you get out of the tunnel, take a right (do not go into Ħal Kirkop). Another long stretch of road faces us. If anything, this soul-less stretch of road will make you quicken your pace so you reach l-Imqabba sooner. Once you reach Valletta Road, things start getting better. This tree-lined avenue is a rare sight nowadays, and will provide some welcome shade. Upon entering the village, take a left and keep walking straight on. Whether you follow Triq San Bażilju or take Triq Lanġasa you will still get to the same spot.

7. Churches of St Basil & St Michael, l-Imqabba

All the ugliness you had to walk through to reach l-Imqabba will melt away when you reach this slice of the past. Tucked away behind an iron gate are two small churches that are a rare remnant of our medieval past when such church couplings were common (sometimes even groups of three or four churches). The oldest of these is that of Saint Basil, which is already mentioned in documents in 1486. Its Norman architecture is a testament to its antiquity, and it also holds the honour of being the only church dedicated to this Greek saint. St Michael’s Church was built adjacent to it around 1550, although the present edifice is probably the result of 17th century restructuring.

8. Parish Church of the Assumption, l-Imqabba

A few steps away lies yet another Baroque church dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin. This church was completed in 1599. Sadly, it was badly hit in WWII, with the dome and south transept almost completely rebuilt. Although perhaps not as imposing as other Baroque churches in Malta, it still possesses a certain charm. From here, take the narrow street just opposite the church – another typically charming village street that Mqabba is so full of.

9. Church of Our Lady of Sorrows, l-Imqabba

As soon as you reach the end of the narrow street, you can see a small church to your left. A church dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin stood here before 1500, but the current building dates from the 17th century. At some point, the dedication of the church changed slightly – probably aided by the fact that there was a much larger church dedicated to the Assumption a stone’s throw away. This is the last church on this pilgrimage until we reach Laferla Cross a few kilometres hence. From here we exit l-Imqabba and take several country roads towards Ta’ Kandja and the outskirts of Siġġiewi.

Although there are no major sites here, you can still admire several wayside niches, and vernacular architecture. You can also notice modern concrete intrusions as we keep encroaching on our precious countryside. It is a straight line through Ta’ Kandja until you reach the first major intersection just outside Siġġiewi.

Keep walking along the outskirts of Siġġiewi until you reach a second intersection. From here you need to go straight on into Triq Bur il-Kbir (and do not turn left towards Tal-Providenza). A few metres ahead take the second left into Triq il-Fawwara. At one point you will reach a Y-junction: take the road on the right (Triq Santu Kristu tal-Għolja). From here we start our ascent towards Laferla Cross. This last part is the popular route taken by many on Maundy Thursday as a short penitential pilgrimage. A set of three stone statues representing the Passion mysteries accompany us on the way up.

10. Church of the Annunciation, l/o is-Siġġiewi

A church has stood here from at least the mid-15th century, although the present structure dates from 1681. The church is currently in a poor state of preservation, with a series of seismic shocks further weakening the structure in recent years. As of 2019, a technical report has been submitted in the hope that this monument is restored. For now we can only hope that the structure does not collapse completely.

Laferla Cross

We have reached the end of our journey – underneath the imposing Laferla Cross which was built in 1903 on the suggestion of Fr Paul Laferla. From here one has a clear view of most of the island. Take time to admire the view – and reflect on the world around you. No doubt you will be able to spot the multitude of cranes and tower blocks that are slowly choking us. The crumbling church behind you should also remind you of the many crumbling structures around us – both literally and figuratively. Then take time to look up at the cross – for centuries a symbol of suffering but also of hope to many.

May it help you to face your own sufferings – and help others with theirs.

• Distance: 13km
• Duration: 3 hours
• Difficulty: Easy

This relatively easy route takes you off the tourist track and through some delightful countryside and villages in the southern part of Malta. The final destination is the church of St John the Evangelist in what was once the tiny medieval hamlet of Ħal Millieri.

• 

1. Parish Church of Christ the King, Paola

We start our pilgrimage in front of the Church of Christ the King in Paola. Although construction on this church started in the 1920s, this massive edifice took years to complete, and it has been only in recent years that the interior has received some much needed attention. Some might find the present decorative scheme a tad too grandiose or even anachronistic, but there is no denying that this is an impressive space.

The first part of our pilgrimage takes us through the busy centre of Paola. This particular town traces its modern origins to the 17th century when Grand Master Antoine de Paule attempted to create a settlement here in 1626. However, it was not until the late 19th century, with the rapidly expanding dockyards nearby, that Paola became a true town. A lot of the architecture in the centre of town dates from this period, and you can admire many beautiful domestic buildings as you make your way towards Tarxien.

2. Parish Church of the Annunciation, Ħal Tarxien

We enter Ħal Tarxien from the ‘wrong’ end, as we walk up the elegant Paola Road and reach the Parish Church from behind. This church was completed in 1627, with the distinctive bell-towers completed by 1636. These were modelled on those of St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta, and remain a rare example of conical spires in Malta. Take note of the ‘double’ facade that was never completed, and can still be seen just underneath the belfries – a result of extensive remodelling in the 18th century.

3. Church of Saint Bartholemew, Ħal Tarxien

As we exit the main square, we proceed south towards Żejtun, along the old processional route of the St Gregory Pilgrimage. Owing to the importance of this route it is no surprise that several important buildings were built along the way. You can admire several palatial buildings on the right, including Palazzo Abela, as well as the exquisite Church of St Bartholomew. Built in 1764, this is a splendid example of Late Baroque Maltese architecture. At the end of this stretch of road is the beautiful Villa Barbaro, whose origins go back to the early 16th century. Turn right at this point, and proceed towards Żejtun, taking great care to cross the busy Triq San Anard. Then, instead of going towards Żejtun, turn right again towards tal-Barrani, once again taking great care when crossing Triq tal-Barrani.

4. Church of Christ the Redeemer, Ħal Għaxaq

We now go uphill towards the lonely little church of Christ the Redeemer, popularly known as Santu Kristu. This church is particularly dear to the present author, and you can read more about it here. From here we enter the charming village of Ħal Għaxaq. As soon as you reach the outskirts of the village, take a left and then right, and right again. This might seem like an unnecessary detour, but you will be rewarded with the magnificent sight of the parish church of the Assumption.

5. Parish Church of the Assumption of the Virgin, Ħal Għaxaq

This imposing church is another Late Baroque masterpiece by the Maltese architect Sebastiano Saliba. I personally find this church one of the best examples of Maltese Baroque, with a sense of proportion that is often lacking in other examples. The interior is also full of splendid works of art by the likes of Francesco Zahra, Gian Nikol Buhagiar, Mariano Gerada, Gianni Vella, and Emvin Cremona – if you happen to find it open it is worth a visit. Leaving the main square, take the small alley to the left of the church – noting the late Medieval ‘Arabic / Norman’ archway of which several examples can still be found around Ħal Għaxaq. This winding street leads us in another small square dominated by a small church.

6. Church of Saint Philip Neri, Ħal Għaxaq

It seems that the people of Ħal Għaxaq were quite please with Saliba’s work, for in 1763 – 30 years after works on the present parish church started, he was commissioned with the building of this miniature late Baroque gem. It is worth noting the stylistic similarities with the Church of Saint Bartholomew in Ħal Tarxien. But it is also worth noting the portico on the façade – an architectural element usually added to give shelter to pilgrims. So far, I have not come across any references to this church being a pilgrimage church, and the inclusion of the portico might have been added more for prestige than to meet a real need. From here we will proceed towards Dawret Ħal Għaxaq (once again, cross carefully – there are pedestrian lights), and make our way towards the open countryside.

• 

7. Church of Our Lady of Loreto, Il-Gudja

The road towards Iż-Żurrieq is a straightforward and pleasant countryside walk with few points of interest. However, it is worth taking the slight detour towards the Church of Our Lady of Loreto on the outskirts of Gudja. The origins of this church go back to 1548 when the Knight Fra Imberto de Morines built a small church as thanksgiving for victory in battle. Apart from being credited with introducing the devotion towards Our Lady of Loreto, this also makes the old church one of the first buildings to be erected by the Knights outside of the Birgu / Grand Harbour area. That church is now the sacristy of the current building, which was built in the late 17th century. This church still enjoys widespread devotion, not least by the people of Gudja who celebrate the titular feast with great devotion in mid-December. The route then proceeds around the end of one of the airport runways, and then turns towards more countryside until it reaches Misraħ Ħlantun. This little opening is weird in many ways. Firstly because it was the focus of a rural development programme in the early 2000s that seems slightly pointless (there are paved walkways and benches with no seemingly useful purpose – oh and the obligatory little commemorative sign). It also feels like there should be a hamlet of sorts in the area that somehow mysteriously disappeared. Once you pass the area, we reach the outskirts of the village of Iż-Żurrieq.

8. Church of Saint Agatha, Iż-Żurrieq

Turning right towards Iż-Żurrieq we reach the south-eastern outskirts of the village and pass by the small church of St Agatha. The present edifice is mostly a 17th century creation, but the origins of this church can be traced back as far as 1428. Once again the presence of a portico points towards a possible pilgrimage church, although given that originally this church was in the remote countryside far from the village centre, it could simply have been designed as shelter from the elements.

9. Church of Saint Andrew, Iż-Żurrieq

A few metres away from the church of Saint Agatha lies another small country church dedicated to Saint Andrew. The church forms part of a small heritage park that includes badly mutilated catacombs and the famous Xarolla windmill. Little information about this church is known, but judging from the rudimentary architecture, it is possibly a late Medieval building. The dedication to St Andrew, patron saint of fishermen, is also a reminder of our proximity to the sea.

10. Church of Saint Bartholemew, Iż-Żurrieq

After proceeding down further for a few metres we turn left into the village proper where we are met with another late Baroque gem. The present church was built in 1775, and replaced a smaller 15th century (or earlier) church. The façade is more austere than other late Baroque churches we have encountered along the route, but the interior (if you are lucky enough to find the church open) is an explosion of rococo decoration. It is worth noting that this is the second church dedicated to this saint that we have encountered on this route. Saint Bartholomew is patron saint of butchers, tanners, and leather workers – all important trades in the pre-modern age.

11. Parish Church of Saint Catherine, Iż-Żurrieq

We now find ourselves in the old village core, and after a few twists and turns we are faced with the imposing temple dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria. Approaching from the side streets allows us to enjoy the full dramatic impact of having the church emerge suddenly from the surrounding buildings (The wide avenue opened in the late 20th century in front of the church has changed that spatial dynamic). The core building dates from the early 17th century, but the side naves are a 20th century addition. The church houses several works by Mattia Preti.

The avenue in front of the church eventually leads to Blue Grotto Avenue along the more modern parts of the village. After some very dull architecture, we take a left and find ourselves in the countryside once more – and walking towards the villages of Il-Qrendi and l-Imqabba. Halfway between the outskirts of Iż-Żurrieq and Il-Qrendi we take a right turn and we reach our final destination: the long lost hamlet of Ħal Millieri.

12. Church of the Annunciation, Ħal Millieri

Ħal Millieri was one of many small hamlets that did not survive into the modern age. Many late Medieval hamlets had disappeared by the 17th century. Ħal Millieri survived only a little longer than that with the last recorded birth registered in 1711. Only two small churches survive from this hamlet, which once had four documented churches – a testament to former glory. The first, and by far the most important one, is that dedicated to the Annunciation.

This church is reached through a small gateway and a garden. It is one of the few remaining places in Malta where one can get an idea of late Medieval sacred space – with an enclosed parvis (generally used also for burials) leading up to the church proper. Like many churches at the time, there were two stuck together, and the remains of an older church dedicated to the Visitation are still visible next to it. The present church of the Annunciation dates from the late 15th century, but archaeological excavations have unearthed the foundations of an earlier 13th century edifice.

However, the architecture is not the most important element of this church. Rather it is the unique and beautiful late Medieval fresco cycle that adorns the interior of the church that make this one of the most amazing monuments in Malta. The cycle is important not only because it is almost complete, but also because it is in an excellent state of preservation. Unfortunately the church is only opened once a month, on the first Sunday of each month.

13. Church of St John the Evangelist, Ħal Millieri

Our final destination, a few metres away from the previous church, might feel like an anticlimax. The church, dating from 1640, has plenty of charm but none of the mystique of the previous church. Yet originally this was the main church of Ħal Millieri, and the whole hamlet was built around it. Originally there was another small church, dedicated to Saint Michael, that abutted against this one, however no traces of this church survive.

We have now reached the end of this pilgrimage – and allow me a little reflection on John the Evangelist. John is an enigmatic figure: he is the author of the Gospel of John and the Book of Revelation. If you are familiar with either, as well as with other New Testament writings, you will immediately notice a marked difference between him and his contemporaries. He was also the beloved disciple, a clear favourite with Jesus Christ, and the only Apostle present at the Crucifixion. He was also the only Apostle to die from old age, and not martyrdom. And yet, the other three gospels do not paint a pretty picture of him, or of his brother James the Great, depicting them as quick to anger and referred to as ‘Boanerges’ or ‘sons of thunder’. Ironically, his brother was the first Apostle to suffer a martyr’s death…

His brother is also the final destination of the Camino de Santiago, that network of pilgrimage routes that has moved Europe for centuries and was almost forgotten in our age of comfort and technology. Should we abandon modernism and technology and go back to those ‘primitive’ ways? Perhaps not – but I still have serious reservations on whether technology has made our lives better or simply faster…

Distance: 9.3km
Duration: 2 hours
Difficulty: Easy

This route terminates at the Church of St Matthew the Evangelist in Qrendi, known as Tal-Maqluba. It is one of the most suggestive churches on the Maltese islands, perched on a cliff-edge above a sinkhole. Legend has it that a hamlet once stood above this sinkhole. Its inhabitants led a very dissolute lifestyle, except for one pious man (in some versions a nun) who implored them to mend their ways to no avail. Eventually God decided they had to be punished, and the earth opened up and swallowed the hamlet. In another version, the land was lifted by angels and thrown into the sea forming the island of Filfla, off the coast of Qrendi. There might be some truth to the legend as the remains of wells have been found still hanging to the sinkhole’s walls, indicating some form of old habitation that has since been lost to erosion.

1 – Cathedral of the Conversion of St. Paul, Mdina

This pilgrimage route starts in the old capital city of Mdina – traditionally an important start or end point for many pilgrimages. The impressive Baroque facade (a masterpiece by the Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafa) is a very suggestive backdrop for the start of a pilgrimage. Make your way to the main gate of Mdina – and take time to admire some splendid architecture!

2 – Church of St Agatha, Mdina

This tiny church has its origins in the 15th century although the present building is also the work of architect Lorenzo Gafa who drew up plans for the new church (and the cathedral) following the earthquake of 1693. From here we can exit by the main gate, another masterpiece of Baroque triumphalism. Proceed towards Saqqajja hill, and down the steps. WARNING: crossing this uphill is particularly dangerous – use the pedestrian crossing!

From here onwards much of this route is through gently rolling countryside – mostly unspoilt (I say ‘mostly’ because even here one can see encroaching ‘development’ and hideous ‘architecture’ that is plaguing Malta). It is also worth keeping a map handy as one can easily take a wrong turn.

3 – Church of Saint Blaise

This lonely little church is our only companion between Rabat and Qrendi. It is dedicated to Saint Blaise, bishop and martyr, who was invoked against throat ailments (legend has it he once saved a boy from choking on a fish bone). Curiously though, in Malta he was also patron saint of midwives, and he is invoked in the prayer ‘San Blas! San Blas! Wessa’ t-toqba u ċekken ir-ras!’ (Which means: Saint Blaise! Saint Blaise! Widen the passageway and make the head small!).

Once we pass by this little church the route is a fairly straightforward one until we have to turn left towards Siġġiewi. Soon after we get to a Y-junction – it is important to take the right road (Triq ta’ Bur il-Kbir). This takes us around the village of Siġġiewi. At the next junction, take the road exactly opposite (Triq ta’ Kilpa).

The road reaches another junction, and you need to take the road directly opposite (do not turn left into Triq il-Qrendi!). A few hundred metres further down we can take a short detour to the left on Triq Bur it-Tokk to the little hamlet of Ħax-Xluq.

4 – Church of the Assumption, Ħax-Xluq l/o Is-Siġġiewi

Although this is off the main route, it is well worth visiting. It is one of Malta’s hidden gems. The church itself is a rare example of Maltese medieval architecture (It is hardly ever opened, but if it is do go in!). The setting is also highly suggestive – just a few houses interspersed in the vicinity – giving us a glimpse of what Maltese hamlets looked like in the medieval period (the present houses belong to the modern era). A charming little feast is held in this hamlet on the Sunday after the 15th of August (the feast of the Assumption).

Once past Ħax-Xluq, we are faced with another long stretch of blissful peace and quiet (well, hopefully not too many cars!) until we reach the outskirts of Qrendi.

5 – Church of St Catherine, Il-Qrendi

This curious little church signals the beginnings of the charming village of Qrendi. It has a very particular architecture – a very squarish facade with a very rudimentary split-level arrangement. The dedication to St Catherine is a reminder that this village formed part of the older parish of Żurrieq until 1618.

From here take a couple of steps back and go into Qrendi via Triq Santa Katerina, past the early British-period ‘Commanders’ Garden’ built by Sir Alexander Ball between 1802 and 1805 not only to provide more greenery but also for agricultural and botanical research. If only our politicians followed these examples!

6 – Church of Our Saviour, Il-Qrendi

Once we enter the village proper we are soon greeted by another beautiful church dedicated to Our Saviour. This church is typical of the small country churches built in the 17th century around Malta. Once again, this church is rarely opened, but if it is do take a little peek inside to admire it’s decorated ceiling, all covered in painted floral motifs.

7 – Parish Church of the Assumption, Il-Qrendi

This beautiful church (yet another gem by Lorenzo Gafa) dominates the little village of Qrendi. It is one of the most underrated churches in Malta. The church has a curious plan. Looking at it from the front the two belfries at each end of the side chapels give the impression that the church is bigger than it actually is. Inside the church has all you would expect from a Maltese Baroque church, and despite being very ornate it still feels just right.

From here it is just a few more hundred metres until we reach our final destination.

8 – Church of St Matthew, Il-Maqluba, l/o Il-Qrendi

We end this route with one of my favourite rural churches. In reality there are two churches here. On the left of the bigger church lies the small medieval church of St Matthew. It is a tiny space, but beautifully evocative. The bigger church was built in the 17th century (the big window on the facade, and the two tiny belfries are later additions). It is a beautiful country church – austere by Maltese standards.

The feast of St Matthew falls on the 21st of September. A small feast is held on the Sunday after the 21st of September, complete with food stands, funfair games (you can even win live rabbits!) and fireworks.