Route 7: All Souls’ Route

Distance: 12km
Duration: 3.5-4 hours*
Difficulty: Intermediate

*The route itself is about 3 hours, but do allow time to visit at least the magnificent Addolorata Cemetery.

This is an unusual pilgrimage route in that it is built not around churches but around cemeteries and death-related sites. The stops are not even all Christian: Death is universal. We also live in a world where Death is either something terrible that happens in far away countries or else it is a sanitised affair in the comfort of a hospital or care home. This route also goes through some of the most polluted and ugliest parts of Malta: Death comes in many forms.

1. Church of the Holy Cross, Floriana

We start our tour in front of the Capuchin Friary in Floriana. Originally built in 1588 it was almost totally destroyed during the Second World War and rebuilt in the 1950s. This church is notable for being the only church in Malta to hold two mummified friars in the crypt. Although this is a rare occurrence nowadays, this was fairly common practice in many religious orders – a reminder of the brevity and transience of life. From here we walk out towards Porte des Bombes and cross the road towards Pietà, where we reach the first cemetery on our route.

2. Ta’ Braxia Cemetery, Pietà

This is probably the most underrated cemeteries in Malta, with most people who pass it by not even realising it is there. The cemetery was designed by Emanuele Luigi Galizia and built between 1855-57 as an interfaith cemetery for British servicemen. The cemetery is dominated by the Lady Rachel Hamilton-Gordon memorial chapel, designed by John Loughborough Pearson in 1893 in a Neo Romanesque-Gothic Revivalist style.

3. Pietà Military Cemetery, Pietà

The road then continues downhill towards Sa Maison, where we take a left turn towards the small church of Our Lady of Sorrows (in Italian della Pietà which gave the town its name). Going uphill again we soon pass by the Pietà Military Cemetery on our left – burial place for a over a thousand WWI soldiers, besides other later military burials. We keep walking up towards the Nationalist Party headquarters, and take a left, and another left and onwards till we reach Sqaq il-Kubrit on our right. This little and unknown shortcut takes us right next to our next stopping point.

4. Church of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medallion, Blata l-Bajda

This iconic building is the resting place of Saint Gorg Preca – to date Malta’s only ever canonised saint (2007). Following his canonisation the church’s main altar was redesigned and the saint’s corpse laid out in a special glass sarcophagus. The route then proceeds towards Marsa (use the pedestrian lights to cross), all the way down Spencer Hill.

5. Site of Turkish Cemetery, Marsa

As we enter Marsa proper, we pass through an area where a Turkish cemetery was discovered in 2012 during roadworks. There are no visible signs today (at least as far as I have been able to find out), but it does shed light on how we treat human burials in different situations. From here onwards it is a straight line across Marsa, past the Holy Trinity Church, and towards Albert Town.

From here onwards the current route might not be totally possible due to ongoing roadworks which are anything but walking-friendly. This might mean that the 6th stop (The Turkish & Jewish Cemeteries) might have to be missed, and instead proceed directly towards Paola and the Addolorata Cemetery.

6. Turkish & Jewish Cemeteries, Marsa

The iconic Turkish cemetery was built between 1873-74, once again to plans by Galizia, to replace earlier Muslim cemeteries. Adjacent to it is a smaller and simpler Jewish cemetery, designed by Webster Paulson in 1879. Both cemeteries are at the mercy of flooding (to which the area is very prone), pollution (one of the most heavily congested areas in Malta), and encroaching buildings (mostly ugly industrial edifices). From here we can proceed along the route and towards Addolorata Cemetery.

7. Addolorata Cemetery, Paola

This cemetery is a jewel in Malta’s architectural Victorian heritage – and without doubt Galizia’s crowning glory. The cemetery was built between 1862 and 1868, but it was not until 1870 that the first burial took place. Until then most burials happened inside churches, and extramural burials were met with a lot of resistance. Apart from the crowning church of Our Lady of Sorrows, the cemetery boasts a beautiful array of funerary chapels and monuments. It is well worth a visit, and I recommend spending at least a good half hour to admire its many treasures. Also take note of the hideous flyovers, industrial buildings, and high rise blocks surrounding it.

8. Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, Paola

We now cross into Paola all the way towards Paola square, but instead turning right towards the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum. There are few spaces in the world I find as sacred as this space. This prehistoric underground burial complex was first started around 4000 B.C. and was in use for over two millenia before it was abandoned. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and well worth a visit (tickets need to be booked well in advance).

9. Tal-Erwieħ Cemetery, Ħal Tarxien

We now proceed towards Ħal Tarxien, but instead of going into the old village core we take a left towards Tarxien Temples. Next to this equally fascinating prehistoric complex lies the cemetery known as ‘Tal-Erwieħ‘. At the far end lies the Church of the Risen Christ, one of the earliest examples of Modernist ecclesiastical architecture in Malta – and one of the better examples of the style. The route now proceeds towards Fgura as we make our way towards Bormla. Once again we are faced with traffic and dull architecture – perhaps a symptom of a different kind of death…

10. Dockyard Creek, Bormla

We enter Bormla from Għajn Dwieli side. Warning: this is a tricky part, especially once the road takes a sharp bend into the fortifications. Proceed with care. Eventually we reach the Bormla waterfront – dominated by the American University of Malta campus – looking less like a university and more like a work-in-progress. You might also think it curious to have the Dockyard creek listed along this pilgrimage route – but we tend to forget the many who have died in these waters, especially during the Second World War. We can continue along the waterfront all the way to Birgu until we reach the Freedom Monument in front of St Laurence Collegiate Parish Church.

11. St Laurence Collegiate Parish Church, Birgu

Birgu is the site of some of Malta’s most important historical events – not least the Great Siege of 1565. To the left of the Church of St Laurence (itself a magnificent Baroque Church that is well worth a visit) is a parvis which was built over a burial ground that probably housed the remains of most of the victims of the 1565 Ottoman siege. We can cross this parvis all the way into the main square, and cut diagonally towards the Benedictine monastery and the Church of St Anne. From here we can proceed to the other side of Birgu and reach the coast once more by means of a flight of steps built into the walls.

12. Jewish Cemetery, Kalkara

We now enter the final part of our pilgrimage. The walk around Kalkara creek is a delight. Once we reach the parish church we go into the old village core. Right at the bottom of the hill there is what remains of a Jewish cemetery – which dates back to 1784. Incidentally, this is one of three Jewish cemeteries in Malta, of which the other two we have also visited along this pilgrimage (the Jewish Cemetery in Marsa, and Ta’ Braxia which housed Jewish burials). The narrow uphill road takes us to the other side of Kalkara before we make our descent towards Rinella bay – a lovely little bay tucked away in the otherwise busy Grand Harbour.

13. Cemetery of Wied Għammieq, Kalkara

We reach the final part of our journey as we climb up towards Fort Rinella, passing by Fort Ricasoli along the way. There, in a forgotten corner of the world, lies the saddest place on earth: the cemetery of Wied Għammieq. The cemetery was built as a common mass grave for the victims of the cholera outbreak of 1837 – which started at the Ospizio in Floriana a few metres away from were we started our pilgrimage. The Ospizio was literally a home for the inconvenient and the dispossessed, housing the elderly, the infirm, the poor, prostitutes, illegitimate children, the ‘possessed’, and all the people society did not want to see. Take your time to contemplate Death – and the forgotten. I would like to leave you with this short dream my grandmother used to recount to me as a child, and which has remained with me ever since:

“I dreamt I was walking alone on a cold winter’s night when I passed by a cemetery. I could see the dim light of candles. I heard voices calling my name, so I went to the gate and there they were – the souls of the departed. ‘Pray for us! Pray for us! And light a candle in our memory! Light a candle for the souls of Wied Għammieq!”

For years I thought this was all part of grandmother’s fertile imagination. It was only years later that I found out that the cemetery existed, and who was buried there. I try and visit them at least once a year…and light a candle…

Route 3 – The Jacobean Route

Distance: 8
Duration: 2hrs
Difficulty: Beginner

This short pilgrimage route is a mini-Camino, culminating in the church of St James the Apostle in Valletta. It is an ideal pilgrimage for beginners with few uphills. The only treacherous bits are crossing tal-Barrani, and the Marsa junction. It will also take you through some heavily built-up areas with all the madness of modern life. May this route serve as a reflection on how poor our urban environments are, with very little greenery, dust and fumes, and intense traffic.

Remember: Pilgrimage is not a pretty walk – it is an act of meditation and also of protest. By walking we reclaim public space as common wealth.

1. Church of Christ the Redeemer, Ħal Għaxaq (aka Santu Kristu)

The choice of starting point is a purely personal one. This is where I had finally decided to go ahead and do the Camino proper. You can read more here. You can reach this easily by bus by stopping on the ‘Belt’ bus-stop on Tal-Barrani road (routes 80, 82, 88, 210, 226). Although that means going up the same hill you will have to descend anyway, it is worth the effort. This is a beautiful little church, worth admiring. You can then go downhill, and cross into Ħal Tarxien. Warning: there are no pedestrian lights anywhere, so exercise extreme caution. Caution is also needed on the outskirts of Bulebel and crossing into Ħal Tarxien.

2. Church of St Bartholomew, Ħal Tarxien

This is one of the loveliest parts of this route. Ħal Tarxien has so far managed to preserve its historic village core. This Baroque gem was started in 1764, and is kept in an immaculate condition. Do have a peek inside if the church happens to be open. From here it is a short walk towards the parish church of the Annunciation.

3. Church of the Annunciation, Ħal Tarxien

This beautiful early 17th century church is the focal point of the old village. Take your time to admire the elegant facade, as well as two spires which were modelled on those of St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta. This church is an important one in its own right in Malta’s history of pilgrimage, as the St Gregory’s procession used to start from here. (you can find out more about our proposed St Gregory’s route here). From here the route turns right and into the modern town of Raħal Ġdid (Paola).

4. Church of Christ the King, Raħal Ġdid

Do look up. Paola is full of beautiful early 20th century buildings. The monumental parish church of Christ the King dominates the cityscape. If open, it is also worth a visit, as in recent years a massive restructuring and embellishment programme has given new life to this edifice.

5. Church of Saint Ubaldesca, Raħal Ġdid

A stone’s throw away from the new parish church is the old core of Paola. When Paola was set up by Grand Master de Paule in 1626 he saw to it that the new settlement had a church, and built a tiny church dedicated to St Ubaldesca, a Hospitalier Saint. In 1902 the church was enlarged (you can still see the different sections by looking at the sides of the edifice). From here it is all downhill till you get to the Addolorata Junction. Warning: This is another tricky junction, though thankfully with pedestrian crossings. It is also without a doubt the ugliest part of this route. Unfortunately, there are no real alternatives as the whole area is heavily industrialised and congested.

6. Church of the Holy Trinity, Marsa

Back in the day when Marsa was a bustling harbour town, this was an important church. Nowadays the whole area seems rundown, and ripe for gentrification. Still, despite the bad reputation, there are plenty of beautiful early 20th century houses to be admired. The footbridge over 13th December Road is a convenient link with Ħamrun on the other side.

7. Church of the Miraculous Medallion, Blata l-Bajda

The route only takes you through the tail-end of Ħamrun (known as ‘Mile End’). The domed church of the Miraculous Medallion is the headquarters of the MUSEUM association and burial place of St George Preca. Warning: Keep to the left as you walk through Blata l-Bajda until you reach Porte des Bombes.

8. Church of the Immaculate Conception, Floriana (aka Ta’ Sarria)

This church was built in 1585 by Fra Martin Sarria Navarra (incidentally Sarria and Navarra are both Spanish place names intimately tied to the Camino). It is also a welcome sight as the route finally enters some beautiful (and thankfully intact) urban landscapes, with Argotti gardens and the ex-Methodist church that is now Robert Sammut Hall complimenting the surroundings.

9. Church of St Publius, Floriana

The massive parish church of Floriana dominates the Granaries (Il-Fosos). It was built at a time when Floriana was a bustling suburb. It is dedicated to St Publius, traditionally the first bishop of Malta. The church boasts some impressive works of art, and is well worth visiting. From here on it is a straight road towards Valletta’s new city gate. Take time to admire Sciortino’s ‘Sacred Heart of Christ’ in front of the Phoenicia Hotel.

10. Church of Our Lady of Victories & 11. Church of St Catherine, Valletta

Once you enter the City, pass by the ruins of the old Opera House, and turn right. You will find yourself in front of two of Valletta’s most delightful smaller churches. The one to your right is that of Our Lady of Victories, the first edifice to be built in Valletta. The one to your left is the church of St Catherine, formerly the church of the Italian Knights. Admire the portico, and remember that portico’s were originally incorporated into churches to give shelter to pilgrims.

12. Church of St James the Apostle, Valletta

We now reach the end of this pilgrimage route. Although not as impressive as the cathedral of Santiago, this is still an impressive Baroque gem built in 1710. The church was formerly the church of the knights of Castille, León, & Portugal, all geographical areas with important connections to the Camino. It is also worth noting that even though the devotion towards St James in Malta predates the Knights, the Spanish knights did much to boost the saint’s cult.

If you have time, you might want to extend your pilgrimage a little bit and visit the Church of Our Lady of the Pillar at the lower end of Old Mint Street in Valletta. This Marian title refers to St James’ vision while preaching in Spain. This church belonged to the Aragonese Knights.

Route 2: St Gregory’s Pilgrimage

Distance: 17km (20km if you include the final extra journey to St Thomas Bay)
Duration: 4hrs (add another 30min for the extra part)
Difficulty: Intermediate

The origins of the annual St Gregory’s pilgrimage are shrouded in mystery, with various dates and possible motivations proposed. The first secure reference comes from 1543 when Bishop Cubelles called for an annual pilgrimage on the 12th of March (the old feast day for Pope St Gregory). In the past this used to involve all the Confraternities from all the Malta parishes, as well as the Mdina Cathedral Chapter. The Cathedral Chapter would leave from Mdina and meet all the others at Tarxien Parish Church and from there they would all walk to St Gregory’s Church in Żejtun.

Nowadays, the pilgrimage is held on the first Wednesday after Easter, and it is a small affair leaving from the small Church of St Clement in Żejtun. This pilgrimage route is an attempt to revive that tradition with a proper pilgrimage leaving from Mdina and passing by some of Malta’s most important churches. The route is listed as ‘Intermediate’ for despite its length, it is mostly downhill.

1. Cathedral of the Conversion of St Paul, Mdina

This route departs from the island’s prime church in Mdina. This makes this particular starting point not only a spectacular one, but also convenient since it is easily accessible by public transport. Take some time to admire the beautiful Baroque architecture of the Cathedral, designed in the late 17th century by Lorenzo Gafa.

2. Church of Saint Agatha, Mdina

A few metres away from the Cathedral, as you are exiting Mdina, lies the small church of St Agatha. I have included this in the itinerary because St Agatha is one of the island’s three patron saints (along with St Paul and St Publius). This Sicilian saint enjoys a strong cult in the Rabat area that has its roots in Medieval times.

Once you are out of Mdina, you can start the long descent towards Ħaż-Żebbuġ by going down a part of Saqqajja Hill. Warning: this stretch of road is treacherous, but you will soon be able to come off it by going down Triq it-Tiġrija (Race Street), so named because horse racing has been held on special feast days along this road. You can still see the Loggia at the top of the street, once reserved for the Grand Master and local dignitaries.

This is now followed by a long and beautiful road across the countryside – a rarity in Malta nowadays. Although this road is relatively quiet, some still hang on to the racing tradition by driving at breakneck speed, so always be on your guard. You will eventually reach the outskirts of Ħaż-Żebbuġ, but not without passing by the Gianpula Club, and the Ħaż-Żebbuġ cemetery.

3. Church of Our Lady of Graces, Ħaż-Żebbuġ

Upon reaching Ħaż-Żebbuġ, you should take Triq tal-Grazzja, which is one of the main streets traversing the old village core. On your right you will pass by the small Church of Our Lady of Grace. This little church is still much beloved by the local community, and even gets its own little festa in late September. You can then proceed towards the parish church in the village centre.

4. Parish Church of Saint Philip of Agira, Ħaż-Żebbuġ

This magnificent church is one of the oldest parish churches in Malta, and is mentioned as early as 1436. The dedication is also curious: St Philip (not to be confused with the Apostle of the same name) is a minor Siclian saint whose cult is centred in Agira. The presence of his cult in Malta is evidence of Malta’s historic links with the neighbouring island. If you are lucky enough to find the church open, take time to admire its beautifully sculpted altars, and the statue of Saint Philip which has the distinction of being Malta’s only devotional statue made from solid silver.

5. Church of Saint Roque, Ħaż-Żebbuġ

You can walk a little further until you reach Triq il-Kbira (Main Street), which leads you out of Ħaż-Żebbuġ. Along the way you pass by the beautiful church of Saint Roque, built in 1593 following an outbreak of the plage. St Roque was the saint popularly invoked against the plague and he enjoyed a strong cult up until the mid-19th century when the plague had all but died out. Walking further you will find De Rohan Gate: a triumphal arch built in 1797 to commemorate the elevation of the village to a ‘city’ by Grand Master De Rohan in 1777. From here you need to cross the busy road (pedestrian lights available), and proceed towards Tal-Ħlas

6. Church of the Assumption ‘Tal-Ħlas’, Ħal Qormi

This beautiful church was once a very important pilgrimage church, as witnessed by the porticos on either side of the church parvis. The appellation ‘Tal-Ħlas’ has two possible meanings – either ‘ransom’ (a reference to the ransom of slaves) or ‘childbirth’ (a reference to the many prayers offered for deliverance during the risky business of childbirth). From here you can start the descent towards Ħal Qormi, which takes you to the new housing estate of Ta’ Farsina, and then down to the old village core.

7. Parish Church of St George, Ħal Qormi

This is another of Malta’s medieval parish (there are still some relics of the old medieval church in the new edifice and the adjacent parish museum). The facade is a beautiful example of Maltese Renaissance architecture. Going up along Triq il-Kbira (Main Street) takes you through the beautiful village core.

8. Church of St Francis, Ħal Qormi

Although this church is popularly known as St Francis, it is not dedicated to the more popular St Francis of Assisi, but St Francis de Paule patron saint of mariners. Back in the days when most people plied their trade at sea, this saint enjoyed a great cultic following. The church, recently restored, is a miniature gem of Maltese Baroque architecture. Keep walking up along the main street, and you will reach the Eastern end of the village.

9. Old Parish Church of St Sebastian, Ħal Qormi

St Sebastian is another saint invoked against the plague, and his cult received fresh impetus after the plague of 1813 which hit Ħal Qormi particularly badly. By 1889 this little church had been built and a community flourished in this end of the village, and by 1936 a new parish was formed.

10. Parish Church of St Sebastian, Ħal Qormi

The new parish church is a stone’s throw away from the old church. Plans for a new church were drawn in 1937, as soon as the new parish had been set up. Although the building suffered a lot of delays, mostly because of the Second World War, the imposing building was completed by the 1980s. You can still admire the Art Deco aesthetic, making it a unique example of its kind in Malta.

Once you leave this church you will have to proceed towards the Marsa Sports Grounds. This is the least scenic part of this route, and be sure to use the pedestrian crossings to go to the other side. Upon reaching the bus terminus, you can walk through the Marsa Sports Grounds – a welcome breath of fresh air in this overbuilt (and badly built) area. Make sure you use the overpass to cross into Albert Town until you reach the junction near Addolorata Cemetery. From there you can enter Paola from Triq l-Arkata (Arch Street). This is the only tough ascent along this route.

11. Church of Saint Ubaldesca, Paola

The tough uphill is rewarded with the charming square that is dominated by the church of St Ubaldesca. This obscure female saint is a testament to the 17th century origins of Paola, which was founded by Grand Master Antoine de Paule (hence the name Paola). The original church, built in 1630, was much smaller. The present structure is an extension built in 1900. You can still see the extent of the original church at the back of the edifice.

12. Parish Church of Christ the King, Paola

A few blocks away lies the modern heart of Paola, dominated by the imposing church dedicated to Christ the King built to the plans of Ġuże Damato. This church has witnessed a remarkable transformation in recent years, with several important maintenance and embellishment programmes, as well as pastoral and community projects, that have made it a role model for a contemporary parish. From here you can proceed towards Ħal Tarxien by walking along the street that bears the village name.

13. Parish Church of the Annunciation, Ħal Tarxien

The route approaches this beautiful Baroque Church from behind, so do take your time to admire the impressive facade. Particularly interesting are the two bell towers with conical spires, a rare feature in Maltese ecclesiastical architecture. In the past, this was the church from which the St Gregory procession with all the Confraternities used to start. The remaining route will retrace that same path. One hopes that in the near future this procession is revived in its original form.

14. Church of St Bartholomew, Ħal Tarxien

The pilgrimage route passes through the old village core which was dominated by the parish church on one end, and this beautiful Baroque church at the other end. Evidence of the importance of this street can be found in the surrounding palaces (such as Palazzo Abela right in front of the church). As you leave the old village core, you will pass by Villa Barbaro, a rare surviving example of a country palace predating the Great Siege of 1565. From here onwards it is a straight route towards Bulebel Industrial Estate. A little detour to cross the busy Triq San Anard (St Leonard Street) using the pedestrian lights is highly recommended. Despite the route going through an Industrial Estate, the road is surprisingly inoffensive. You will eventually reach the southern end of Żejtun.

15. Church of the Holy Spirit, Żejtun

The mild uphill takes you right towards Żejtun village core, and past the charming church dedicated to the Holy Spirit. The present church is the result of late 18th century modifications. The original 17th century church faced the parallel Triq San Luċjan (Saint Lucian Street). It is worth remembering that up until the 18th century, the parish church of Żejtun was the church of St Gregory (which back then was dedicated to St Catherine, and which is the final destination of this pilgrimage route). When the present church of St Catherine was built, the main route into the village from Ħal Tarxien changed slightly, and the reorientation of this church reflects that new route.

16. Parish Church of St Catherine, Żejtun

This magnificent Baroque temple was designed by Lorenzo Gafà, architect of the Mdina Cathedral that formed the start of this pilgrimage route. The building fully deserves its honorific title of ‘Cathedral of the South’. Approaching this church from the narrow Triq Santa Katerina (St Catherine Street), as is the case in this route, plays on the Baroque sense of urban drama, as the pilgrim stumbles on the monumental building. The final part of the journey takes you along the aptly named Triq San Girgor (St Gregory Street), along one of the most elegant streets in Malta. The Neo-Romanesque Church of Jesus of Nazareth and Convent are worth admiring along the way.

17. Church of St Gregory, Żejtun

The final destination is the late Medieval church of St Gregory. The low dome, enclosed parvis, and adjacent cemetery are a rare example of an intact Medieval sacred space (despite several later interventions). The church itself, with its low-vaulted pointed arches, is one of my personal favourite sacred spaces in Malta.

The extra mile…

The pilgrimage of St Gregory is traditionally the first swim of the season in Malta. You can take the long downhill along Triq id-Daħla ta’ San Tumas (St Thomas Bay Road) until you reach St Thomas Bay and reward yourself with a swim in the crystal clear waters.