Route 9: The Pauline Route

Distance: 15km
Duration: 3.5 hours
Difficulty: Difficult

This route traces some of the main locations associated with the Pauline cult in Malta. The story of St Paul’s shipwreck in Malta is documented in the Acts of the Apostles (Acts: Chapters 27-28), and while most historians consider the event to be historically true, a lot of legends arose around St Paul’s visit. Although it is very likely that St Paul represents Malta’s first contact with Christianity, the claim for an immediate conversion of even a small population of the island cannot as yet be substantiated. It has however formed the basis of much of Malta’s Christian heritage, and St Paul remains a key figure in Maltese culture.

The route has fewer stops than usual, and most of it is (thankfully) through countryside, making it an ideal walk. There are a few uphills and downhills, so not recommended for the total beginner. Also stock up on water!

1. Għajn Rażul, St Paul’s Bay
The pilgrimage starts in St Paul’s Bay – the traditional location for St Paul’s shipwreck in Malta in 60 A.D. The first point on the pilgrimage route is Għajn Rażul (lit. The Apostle’s Fountain) which according to tradition was the place where St Paul struck on a rock and water gushed out to quench the thirst of the survivors. Before buildings started choking up the bay, one would have been able to see St Paul’s Islands across the bay from here. These were the islands where St Paul’s ship supposedly got shipwrecked, although there has been no conclusive evidence to support this. You can read more info on this interesting little monument here.

The route then goes through St Paul’s Bay – once a charming seaside village, and now mostly ruined by ugly apartments. You could take a seaside detour by turning left at Sqaq tax-Xama’ but that is entirely optional and it might be wiser to save your energy for later.

2. Church of St Paul Shipwreck, St Paul’s Bay

The origins of this church date back to the late 13th century, although the present structure dates from the early 17th century. This was a period when the Pauline cult received a boost as part of the Order of St John’s crusading spirit. The church is located in what was considered to be the area where the survivors set up camp, and St Paul was miraculously unharmed by a viper that had gotten caught in the firewood and bit him. The massive portico attests to the importance of this church as a pilgrimage site.

The route now takes us out of St Paul’s Bay, through some of the most congested (and possibly ugliest) parts of the town. Take care when you reach the junction – even though there are pedestrian crossings, over-speeding cars are a problem here. Then take the road towards Burmarrad.

3. Church of Saint Paul Milqi, Burmarrad

The stretch of road going into Burmarrad is prone to heavy traffic so caution is needed. Once you reach the outskirts of this little hamlet, turn right on Triq Ġebel Għazzara. You will soon reach Triq San Pawl Milqi, and there is a little uphill which takes you to our next stop. This church is also part of a very important Roman archaeological site. The excavations here have yielded a Roman villa with adjacent agricultural complex. The site is traditionally considered to be the location of Publius’ villa, the local ‘chief’ mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles, whose father St Paul healed. Due to the archaeological importance of this site, the area is closed to the public and access is by special permit only.

From now onwards the route goes through some of Malta’s most beautiful countryside – although sadly not as untouched as it should be. At one point the road disappears into a small pathway, and some offroad hiking is necessary. Make sure you turn right into Triq tal-Milord towards the small hamlet of Bidnija. The Church of the Holy Family (marked on the map with an X) is not part of the Pauline itinerary, but it is a useful marker, apart from being a charming little church.

As you walk out of Bidnija, make sure you take a right turn at the Y junction towards the Shooting Range / Horse Riding (NOT towards Mġarr / Golden Bay). Keep to the main road and eventually you will need to turn left towards Żebbiegħ. You will notice Żebbiegħ from its oddly-shaped (and I’d venture to say ‘ugly’) modern church. Walk as if you are heading out of the village, and then turn right towards Mġarr. You will eventually reach a little roundabout, where you need to turn left on Binġemma Road.

After a long stretch of road, you will reach the charming church of Our Lady of Itria (marked X on the map). Once again this is not part of the Pauline route, but a great landscape-photo spot. A few metres further you will cross the Victoria Lines, a defensive wall built by the British in the late 19th century. With the exception of a few forts and batteries punctuating this wall, the whole project was objectively a colossal waste of money and totally inappropriate for modern warfare.

From here onwards make sure you stick to the main road. You should have a few bus stops, as well as two clusters of houses on the left as you walk towards Rabat. Upon reaching a large arched gateway to a private residence (on your right) keep walking straight on (do NOT turn left as that would take you towards Chadwick Lakes and away from our final destination). You will eventually reach the little hamlet of Għajn Qajjet (a few houses on the main road), before the road turns left at the outskirts of Rabat.

4. Church of St Publius (St Paul’s Grotto)

We find ourselves once more in an urban area, although the first stretch of road has some magnificent valley views to the left. Do watch out for traffic – the pavement here is mostly inexistent. Upon reaching a little opening, turn right into Triq Santa Rita. This will take us directly to our next stop – St Paul’s Grotto. Although the building in front of us looks like one church, this is in fact part of a massive ecclesiastical complex that includes the parish church of St Paul (the central buidling), burial grounds with catacombs and underground churches (to the left), and the small church of St Publius to the right which serves as the entrance to the grotto. It is here that St Paul is meant to have resided during his three months in Malta. One must bear in mind that this whole area was once just outside the walls of the city of Melite (the Roman name for Mdina). The grotto itself is well worth a visit – it does feel special regardless of what you believe.

There are many ways of reaching Mdina from here. I have chosen the quietest one which takes us across the churchyard, and into some of Rabat’s most charming streets. We eventually reach the Church of St Mark (Augustinian Priory), with its elegant boulevard in front of it leading directly towards Mdina gate.

5. Cathedral of the Conversion of St Paul, Mdina

The last few metres take us inside Malta’s old capital – its current size the result of a scaling down of the Roman civitas under Arab rule. The capital was also subject to a major rebuilding programme in the Baroque period the results of which we can admire as we walk into the walled city. The magnificent gate, the Vilhena Palace on the right as soon as we enter the gate, the exquisite church of St Agatha, and last but not least the magnificent cathedral designed by Lorenzo Gafa.

We started this pilgrimage at the place where St Paul was supposed to have been shipwrecked here in Malta (other locations around Malta have been suggested). This episode marked the last part of his extensive travels – he would eventually reach Rome where he would be tried and executed for his faith. It is fitting that we should end this pilgrimage in a church which celebrates the very beginning of that journey: his conversion on his way to Damascus. St Paul was a pilgrim like us; one of the most prolific travellers of his age. He is an extremely complex figure – both a product of his times (his views on women and sexuality stem from his puritanical Jewish upbringing) as well as an astonishing visionary (he opened up Christianity to the Gentiles).

On a very personal note: I am not a big fan of St Paul (for personal reasons too complex to get into detail here), but I can still admire his burning intellect and pilgrim spirit. We often look at saints as being perfect beings – but they were not. They were very imperfect human beings who dedicated their lives to becoming better men and women – which is what I believe we should all be doing.

Route 7: All Souls’ Route

Distance: 12km
Duration: 3.5-4 hours*
Difficulty: Intermediate

*The route itself is about 3 hours, but do allow time to visit at least the magnificent Addolorata Cemetery.

This is an unusual pilgrimage route in that it is built not around churches but around cemeteries and death-related sites. The stops are not even all Christian: Death is universal. We also live in a world where Death is either something terrible that happens in far away countries or else it is a sanitised affair in the comfort of a hospital or care home. This route also goes through some of the most polluted and ugliest parts of Malta: Death comes in many forms.

1. Church of the Holy Cross, Floriana

We start our tour in front of the Capuchin Friary in Floriana. Originally built in 1588 it was almost totally destroyed during the Second World War and rebuilt in the 1950s. This church is notable for being the only church in Malta to hold two mummified friars in the crypt. Although this is a rare occurrence nowadays, this was fairly common practice in many religious orders – a reminder of the brevity and transience of life. From here we walk out towards Porte des Bombes and cross the road towards Pietà, where we reach the first cemetery on our route.

2. Ta’ Braxia Cemetery, Pietà

This is probably the most underrated cemeteries in Malta, with most people who pass it by not even realising it is there. The cemetery was designed by Emanuele Luigi Galizia and built between 1855-57 as an interfaith cemetery for British servicemen. The cemetery is dominated by the Lady Rachel Hamilton-Gordon memorial chapel, designed by John Loughborough Pearson in 1893 in a Neo Romanesque-Gothic Revivalist style.

3. Pietà Military Cemetery, Pietà

The road then continues downhill towards Sa Maison, where we take a left turn towards the small church of Our Lady of Sorrows (in Italian della Pietà which gave the town its name). Going uphill again we soon pass by the Pietà Military Cemetery on our left – burial place for a over a thousand WWI soldiers, besides other later military burials. We keep walking up towards the Nationalist Party headquarters, and take a left, and another left and onwards till we reach Sqaq il-Kubrit on our right. This little and unknown shortcut takes us right next to our next stopping point.

4. Church of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medallion, Blata l-Bajda

This iconic building is the resting place of Saint Gorg Preca – to date Malta’s only ever canonised saint (2007). Following his canonisation the church’s main altar was redesigned and the saint’s corpse laid out in a special glass sarcophagus. The route then proceeds towards Marsa (use the pedestrian lights to cross), all the way down Spencer Hill.

5. Site of Turkish Cemetery, Marsa

As we enter Marsa proper, we pass through an area where a Turkish cemetery was discovered in 2012 during roadworks. There are no visible signs today (at least as far as I have been able to find out), but it does shed light on how we treat human burials in different situations. From here onwards it is a straight line across Marsa, past the Holy Trinity Church, and towards Albert Town.

From here onwards the current route might not be totally possible due to ongoing roadworks which are anything but walking-friendly. This might mean that the 6th stop (The Turkish & Jewish Cemeteries) might have to be missed, and instead proceed directly towards Paola and the Addolorata Cemetery.

6. Turkish & Jewish Cemeteries, Marsa

The iconic Turkish cemetery was built between 1873-74, once again to plans by Galizia, to replace earlier Muslim cemeteries. Adjacent to it is a smaller and simpler Jewish cemetery, designed by Webster Paulson in 1879. Both cemeteries are at the mercy of flooding (to which the area is very prone), pollution (one of the most heavily congested areas in Malta), and encroaching buildings (mostly ugly industrial edifices). From here we can proceed along the route and towards Addolorata Cemetery.

7. Addolorata Cemetery, Paola

This cemetery is a jewel in Malta’s architectural Victorian heritage – and without doubt Galizia’s crowning glory. The cemetery was built between 1862 and 1868, but it was not until 1870 that the first burial took place. Until then most burials happened inside churches, and extramural burials were met with a lot of resistance. Apart from the crowning church of Our Lady of Sorrows, the cemetery boasts a beautiful array of funerary chapels and monuments. It is well worth a visit, and I recommend spending at least a good half hour to admire its many treasures. Also take note of the hideous flyovers, industrial buildings, and high rise blocks surrounding it.

8. Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, Paola

We now cross into Paola all the way towards Paola square, but instead turning right towards the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum. There are few spaces in the world I find as sacred as this space. This prehistoric underground burial complex was first started around 4000 B.C. and was in use for over two millenia before it was abandoned. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and well worth a visit (tickets need to be booked well in advance).

9. Tal-Erwieħ Cemetery, Ħal Tarxien

We now proceed towards Ħal Tarxien, but instead of going into the old village core we take a left towards Tarxien Temples. Next to this equally fascinating prehistoric complex lies the cemetery known as ‘Tal-Erwieħ‘. At the far end lies the Church of the Risen Christ, one of the earliest examples of Modernist ecclesiastical architecture in Malta – and one of the better examples of the style. The route now proceeds towards Fgura as we make our way towards Bormla. Once again we are faced with traffic and dull architecture – perhaps a symptom of a different kind of death…

10. Dockyard Creek, Bormla

We enter Bormla from Għajn Dwieli side. Warning: this is a tricky part, especially once the road takes a sharp bend into the fortifications. Proceed with care. Eventually we reach the Bormla waterfront – dominated by the American University of Malta campus – looking less like a university and more like a work-in-progress. You might also think it curious to have the Dockyard creek listed along this pilgrimage route – but we tend to forget the many who have died in these waters, especially during the Second World War. We can continue along the waterfront all the way to Birgu until we reach the Freedom Monument in front of St Laurence Collegiate Parish Church.

11. St Laurence Collegiate Parish Church, Birgu

Birgu is the site of some of Malta’s most important historical events – not least the Great Siege of 1565. To the left of the Church of St Laurence (itself a magnificent Baroque Church that is well worth a visit) is a parvis which was built over a burial ground that probably housed the remains of most of the victims of the 1565 Ottoman siege. We can cross this parvis all the way into the main square, and cut diagonally towards the Benedictine monastery and the Church of St Anne. From here we can proceed to the other side of Birgu and reach the coast once more by means of a flight of steps built into the walls.

12. Jewish Cemetery, Kalkara

We now enter the final part of our pilgrimage. The walk around Kalkara creek is a delight. Once we reach the parish church we go into the old village core. Right at the bottom of the hill there is what remains of a Jewish cemetery – which dates back to 1784. Incidentally, this is one of three Jewish cemeteries in Malta, of which the other two we have also visited along this pilgrimage (the Jewish Cemetery in Marsa, and Ta’ Braxia which housed Jewish burials). The narrow uphill road takes us to the other side of Kalkara before we make our descent towards Rinella bay – a lovely little bay tucked away in the otherwise busy Grand Harbour.

13. Cemetery of Wied Għammieq, Kalkara

We reach the final part of our journey as we climb up towards Fort Rinella, passing by Fort Ricasoli along the way. There, in a forgotten corner of the world, lies the saddest place on earth: the cemetery of Wied Għammieq. The cemetery was built as a common mass grave for the victims of the cholera outbreak of 1837 – which started at the Ospizio in Floriana a few metres away from were we started our pilgrimage. The Ospizio was literally a home for the inconvenient and the dispossessed, housing the elderly, the infirm, the poor, prostitutes, illegitimate children, the ‘possessed’, and all the people society did not want to see. Take your time to contemplate Death – and the forgotten. I would like to leave you with this short dream my grandmother used to recount to me as a child, and which has remained with me ever since:

“I dreamt I was walking alone on a cold winter’s night when I passed by a cemetery. I could see the dim light of candles. I heard voices calling my name, so I went to the gate and there they were – the souls of the departed. ‘Pray for us! Pray for us! And light a candle in our memory! Light a candle for the souls of Wied Għammieq!”

For years I thought this was all part of grandmother’s fertile imagination. It was only years later that I found out that the cemetery existed, and who was buried there. I try and visit them at least once a year…and light a candle…

Route 6: The Franciscan Route

Distance: 12.8km
Duration: 3 hours
Difficulty: Intermediate

This route follows a Franciscan path from the late medieval convent of St Francis belonging to the Franciscan Conventuals in Rabat (next to the Santo Spirito archives) all the way to to the Conventual Church of St Francis in Valletta. Along the route we pass several Marian churches – and St Francis and the Franciscans were keen promoters of Marian devotion. It also represents a move from the more rural (and more or less intact) environs of Rabat to the more congested and often polluted Inner Harbour areas. I hope that this provides a good opportunity to reflect on our ‘modernity’ – dependent on technology and detached from the natural environment…may it lead you to connect once more with the world in the way St Francis did by espousing simplicity and poverty.

1. Church of St Francis of Assisi, Rabat

Our pilgrimage starts from very ancient ground. The Franciscans set up a convent here in the late 14th century next to the older Santo Spirito hospital (the building to the left). Over the years the church and convent have gone through various transformations, and the current building owes much of its appearance to 17th century Baroque sensibilities. The church is also home to ‘Our Lady of Good Health’ which enjoys a strong following. Proceed towards Saqqajja hill, and then down the long road underneath Mdina. Take time to notice two abandoned cemeteries on the left. Once you reach the roundabout cross towards another (better-kept) Commonwealth cemetery and into Ta’ Qali. Warning: There are no pedestrian crossings here or anywhere nearby…cross the road with extra care! Enjoy the open spaces of Ta’ Qali (albeit not exactly ‘natural’ as it’s a man-made park). Once you reach Ħ’Attard the greenery disappears pretty quickly.

2. Parish Church of the Assumption, Ħ’Attard

We enter the village of Attard from Misraħ Kola – mostly terraced houses built in the 80s which are now also falling prey to the apartment blocks mania. Once we reach the Government Primary School we enter into the old village core. The elegant street leading up to the church is full of beautiful houses. The church itself, built in 1613, is one of the masterpieces of Maltese architect Tumas Dingli. We take a left and after a few turns we find ourselves following the old railway line.

3. Parish Church of the Assumption, Birkirkara

Just before the end of Old Railway Street we take a right turn at Triq Vittorio Cassar into a square. The ugliness of most of the apartment buildings is mitigated by the majestic Parish Church of the Assumption – another masterpiece by Tumas Dingli built in 1617. This building served as the main church of Birkirkara until the residents decided to build a new church on the other side of the valley. The old church was left to rot, and it was only in the 1950s that a slow (and as yet incomplete) restoration process started. You can now either go left towards Birkirkara valley, or else take a little detour (and perhaps some rest) at the Old Railway Garden adjacent to the church.

4. Church of St Francis of Assisi, Ta’ Paris, Birkirkara

We now pass through the outskirts of the old village core, and up a winding road that leads us to the next Franciscan Church, that of St Francis, also run by the Conventual Friars. This church, built in a Neo-Romanesque style, owes its origins to a little chapel which the Friars used in 1941 for war refugees fleeing from the harbour area. In 1953 they decided to build a church and convent here to serve the ever growing population of the area. Sadly, all around this area you can notice a huge increase in dull apartment blocks – soulless and characterless.

We leave Ta’ Paris to rejoin the Old Railway track once again, as it passes through Santa Venera. There is little to admire along this stretch of road – even the few interesting terraced houses are giving way to more apartment blocks. There are of course alternative routes which are ‘slightly’ more interesting, but perhaps that is exactly the problem nowadays – we try to avoid facing reality a little bit too much.

5. Church of St Francis of Assisi, Il-Ħamrun

We reach the end of Old Railway Track and have to cross a busy junction into Ħamrun – exercise caution when crossing! A few blocks down we reach the oddly neglected church of St Francis, built by the Franciscan Minors in 1952. It is a curious and in many ways fascinating building – a mixture of latent Art Deco traits and (I use the word carefully here) – Post-Modernist elements (look at that Greek pediment sitting uncomfortably on top of the facade!).

6. Parish Church of the Immaculate Conception, Il-Ħamrun

The road then leads us to another post-war church – the Parish Church of the Immaculate Conception which was built in the sixties. This is another odd piece of architecture – classicising elements squeezed in between two modern(ist) buildings. It also has a characteristic that sends my OCD on tilt – the actual church lies at about a 30′ angle from the facade, resulting in a skewed floor plan and a triangular vestibule.

The route now turns left and we descend towards Pietà – a relatively quiet stretch until we reach St Joseph school and turn right to the busy road leading towards Valletta. Although this should technically be a drab stretch of road, but once you reach the tree lined path on the left side of the road, it is actually quite pleasant.

7. Church of the Immaculate Conception, (aka Ta’ Sarria), Il-Furjana

We now reach the last stretch as we enter the suburb of Floriana. We pass the majestic Portes des Bombes, then left turn towards the Mall. There are several striking buildings around us, but the Church of Sarria (present structure built in 1675) is a true little gem. It also houses a fantastic set of paintings by Mattia Preti.

8. Parish Church of Saint Publius, Floriana

A few metres down the road we reach the Granaries, dominated by the Parish Church of St Publius. The original church was built in 1733 but was subsequently enlarged in the 19th century. It has many treasures including a spectacular vault by Emvin Cremona.

You can proceed to Valletta either by walking along The Mall or else through it – and appreciate its many beautiful monuments. We will also pass by Antonio Sciortino’s masterpiece of Christ the King (in front of Phoenicia Hotel) and Vincenzo Apap’s spectacular Triton Fountain, before we reach City Gate.

9. Church of St Francis of Assisi, Valletta

We now reach our final destination – the Church of St Francis of Assisi Valletta. This church was built in 1681 and then enlarged in the 1920s. Despite the architectural incongruences (the dome sits uncomfortably on a series of arches that are not aligned to the original vault) – it is still a beautiful space housing works by Preti and Cali (the stupendous ‘Glory of St Francis’ his largest canvas) among others.

Route 3 – The Jacobean Route

Distance: 8
Duration: 2hrs
Difficulty: Beginner

This short pilgrimage route is a mini-Camino, culminating in the church of St James the Apostle in Valletta. It is an ideal pilgrimage for beginners with few uphills. The only treacherous bits are crossing tal-Barrani, and the Marsa junction. It will also take you through some heavily built-up areas with all the madness of modern life. May this route serve as a reflection on how poor our urban environments are, with very little greenery, dust and fumes, and intense traffic.

Remember: Pilgrimage is not a pretty walk – it is an act of meditation and also of protest. By walking we reclaim public space as common wealth.

1. Church of Christ the Redeemer, Ħal Għaxaq (aka Santu Kristu)

The choice of starting point is a purely personal one. This is where I had finally decided to go ahead and do the Camino proper. You can read more here. You can reach this easily by bus by stopping on the ‘Belt’ bus-stop on Tal-Barrani road (routes 80, 82, 88, 210, 226). Although that means going up the same hill you will have to descend anyway, it is worth the effort. This is a beautiful little church, worth admiring. You can then go downhill, and cross into Ħal Tarxien. Warning: there are no pedestrian lights anywhere, so exercise extreme caution. Caution is also needed on the outskirts of Bulebel and crossing into Ħal Tarxien.

2. Church of St Bartholomew, Ħal Tarxien

This is one of the loveliest parts of this route. Ħal Tarxien has so far managed to preserve its historic village core. This Baroque gem was started in 1764, and is kept in an immaculate condition. Do have a peek inside if the church happens to be open. From here it is a short walk towards the parish church of the Annunciation.

3. Church of the Annunciation, Ħal Tarxien

This beautiful early 17th century church is the focal point of the old village. Take your time to admire the elegant facade, as well as two spires which were modelled on those of St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta. This church is an important one in its own right in Malta’s history of pilgrimage, as the St Gregory’s procession used to start from here. (you can find out more about our proposed St Gregory’s route here). From here the route turns right and into the modern town of Raħal Ġdid (Paola).

4. Church of Christ the King, Raħal Ġdid

Do look up. Paola is full of beautiful early 20th century buildings. The monumental parish church of Christ the King dominates the cityscape. If open, it is also worth a visit, as in recent years a massive restructuring and embellishment programme has given new life to this edifice.

5. Church of Saint Ubaldesca, Raħal Ġdid

A stone’s throw away from the new parish church is the old core of Paola. When Paola was set up by Grand Master de Paule in 1626 he saw to it that the new settlement had a church, and built a tiny church dedicated to St Ubaldesca, a Hospitalier Saint. In 1902 the church was enlarged (you can still see the different sections by looking at the sides of the edifice). From here it is all downhill till you get to the Addolorata Junction. Warning: This is another tricky junction, though thankfully with pedestrian crossings. It is also without a doubt the ugliest part of this route. Unfortunately, there are no real alternatives as the whole area is heavily industrialised and congested.

6. Church of the Holy Trinity, Marsa

Back in the day when Marsa was a bustling harbour town, this was an important church. Nowadays the whole area seems rundown, and ripe for gentrification. Still, despite the bad reputation, there are plenty of beautiful early 20th century houses to be admired. The footbridge over 13th December Road is a convenient link with Ħamrun on the other side.

7. Church of the Miraculous Medallion, Blata l-Bajda

The route only takes you through the tail-end of Ħamrun (known as ‘Mile End’). The domed church of the Miraculous Medallion is the headquarters of the MUSEUM association and burial place of St George Preca. Warning: Keep to the left as you walk through Blata l-Bajda until you reach Porte des Bombes.

8. Church of the Immaculate Conception, Floriana (aka Ta’ Sarria)

This church was built in 1585 by Fra Martin Sarria Navarra (incidentally Sarria and Navarra are both Spanish place names intimately tied to the Camino). It is also a welcome sight as the route finally enters some beautiful (and thankfully intact) urban landscapes, with Argotti gardens and the ex-Methodist church that is now Robert Sammut Hall complimenting the surroundings.

9. Church of St Publius, Floriana

The massive parish church of Floriana dominates the Granaries (Il-Fosos). It was built at a time when Floriana was a bustling suburb. It is dedicated to St Publius, traditionally the first bishop of Malta. The church boasts some impressive works of art, and is well worth visiting. From here on it is a straight road towards Valletta’s new city gate. Take time to admire Sciortino’s ‘Sacred Heart of Christ’ in front of the Phoenicia Hotel.

10. Church of Our Lady of Victories & 11. Church of St Catherine, Valletta

Once you enter the City, pass by the ruins of the old Opera House, and turn right. You will find yourself in front of two of Valletta’s most delightful smaller churches. The one to your right is that of Our Lady of Victories, the first edifice to be built in Valletta. The one to your left is the church of St Catherine, formerly the church of the Italian Knights. Admire the portico, and remember that portico’s were originally incorporated into churches to give shelter to pilgrims.

12. Church of St James the Apostle, Valletta

We now reach the end of this pilgrimage route. Although not as impressive as the cathedral of Santiago, this is still an impressive Baroque gem built in 1710. The church was formerly the church of the knights of Castille, León, & Portugal, all geographical areas with important connections to the Camino. It is also worth noting that even though the devotion towards St James in Malta predates the Knights, the Spanish knights did much to boost the saint’s cult.

If you have time, you might want to extend your pilgrimage a little bit and visit the Church of Our Lady of the Pillar at the lower end of Old Mint Street in Valletta. This Marian title refers to St James’ vision while preaching in Spain. This church belonged to the Aragonese Knights.

Santu Kristu – the vow

Jekk trid taqra dan l-artiklu bil-Malti agħfas hawn.

I made a vow on the chapel of Santu Kristu*, and those of you who know anything about it, know that you cannot rescind on such vows very easily. The vow was a simple one – as soon as I finish my studies I will do the Camino of Santiago de Compostela. It was a wish that had been there for years. I was about to do it ten years ago, but it was not yet time. But now the time is ripe, and I made that vow about six years ago.

Let me be clear. I have not made a vow as some form of exchange. You know, “help me and I’ll do a little walk for you”. Nothing of the sort, for as the saying goes ‘God will help you only if you help yourself’. Nowadays everything has become so easy (press a button, visit a website, phone a number…) that we have even reduced God to some wondrous grace-giving machine. And if we don’t have our way, we start cursing him that he helped others and not us…as if God is some form of vending machine, and if we kick him he’ll somehow work better.

No, a vow is not some form of divine contract. A vow is a long confession – ‘help me because I cannot do this alone’. And now that I have finished my studies, that leaden question weighs on my shoulders: ‘Where to now? How am I going to turn all I have learnt and worked for into something positive for others? Or am I to dig an intellectual pit and let myself be buried under all I have learnt? And so, I vowed to do the Camino. I am here because others have helped me – now it’s my turn to help others.

But first, an important prologue.

Before I start walking I will visit Naples – more precisely to visit the tomb of St Cajetan. Once more, an old dream, but as always, it was not yet time. I do not just want to see his tomb (to be honest, that is more a sign of respect than anything else), but the city where he worked and died.

Brackets: Saint Cajetan was born to a noble family from Vicenza, and studied to become a lawyer. He had the whole world at his feet – and then came the moment of crisis and he renounced everything and chose poverty and to work for the destitute and the sick.

That is what walking does to you, it makes you look, and think. The more I walk, the more I realise certain things. Some have called me ‘negative’ – because I denounce all that is ugly both on the outside and the inside. Could be. But I’d invite you to start walking, and maybe you will see what I see.

Out there, beyond the walls of our tiny abodes, and the stuffiness of those metal boxes on wheels that take us from one abode to the next, in the real world that uses no algorithms and does not let you choose what to see, out there are lots of things that should worry us.

For if we are chopping trees to widen roads, it’s because there is no one to walk under the shade of boughs. If we are building on every scrap of land, it is because we have forgotten how to till the fields. If the air is heavy with dust and smoke, it is because we have locked ourselves inside our homes full of chemical products and air purifies.

And thus, I made a vow on Santu Kristu – to find the strength to reach out beyond the comfort of my own home, and see the world for what it is. And for those who know anything about it, you cannot rescind on such vows very easily.

*Santu Kristu

The small church of Santu Kristu lies at the top of a hill in Ħal Għaxaq. The origins of the story go something like this: In 1766 a certain Mikelanġ Zammit was moved by a sermon, and vehemently vowed to build a niche dedicated to Christ the Redeemer on the top of the mentioned hill. But with time his enthusiasm waned, and he forgot all about it, until one day he was going up the hill with his carriage, and as soon as he reached the top he lost control of the horse and was thrown off. When he got up and realised he was unhurt, he remembered his vow and duly fulfilled it. A church was eventually built there in 1859, and stands as a reminder that vows are not to be taken lightly.

Santu Kristu

If you would like to read this article in English click here.

Għamilt wegħda fuq Santu Kristu, u għal min jaf, il-wegħdiet fuq Santu Kristu ma tinħallx minnhom malajr. Il-wegħda kienet sempliċi – kif intemm l-istudji tiegħi immur nagħmel il Camino ta’ Santiago ta’ Compostela. Ix-xewqa biex nagħmel il-Camino kienet ilha hemm. Xi għaxar snin ilu kont sejjer imma l-pjan sfaxxa. Kien għadu mhux il-waqt. Iżda issa kien wasal iż-żmien, u madwar sitt snin ilu għamilt il-wegħda.

Ejja nkunu ċari. M’għamiltx il-wegħda b’xi forma ta’ skambju. Taf int, “int tgħinni u jien nagħmillek daqxejn ta’ mixja”. Xejn minn dan, għax kif jgħid il-Malti ‘għin ruħek biex Alla jgħinek.’ Illum tant drajna kollox hu faċli (agħfas buttuna, żur sit, ċempel numru…) li anke lil Alla rriduċejnih għal magna tal-grazzji. U warrab wiċċek jekk ma tiġinix żewġ, għax nibdew nisħtuh għax lilna m’għeniex u lil ħaddieħor għenu…bħal li kieku Alla xi magna tal-luminata, u jekk intuh ftit bis-sieq ħa jaħdem aħjar.

Le, wegħda mihiex kuntratt m’Alla. Wegħda hija qrara twila – ‘għinni għax waħdi ma nasalx’. U issa li temmejt l-istudji, hemm fuq spallti mistoqsija tqila ċomb: ‘fejn sejjer?’ Kif ħa nsarraf dak li tgħallimt u ħdimt għalih f’ġid għal ta’ madwari? Jew bi ħsiebni nħaffer ħofra intelletwali u hemm nindifen taħt dak kollu li tgħallimt? U għalhekk il-wegħda kienet il-Camino. Jien wasalt s’hawn għax ħaddieħor għeni – issa jmiss li jien ngħin lil ħaddieħor.

Iżda qabel xejn, hemm prologu żgħir li xieraq isir.

Qabel nibda nimxi hemm żjara ġewwa Napli – u b’mod preċiż biex inżur il-qabar ta’ San Gejtanu. Għal darb’oħra, ħolma antika, iżda bħal dejjem, kien għadu mhux il-waqt. Nixtieq nara mhux biss fejn hu midfun (dik l-inqas ħaġa – iktar bħala rispett), iżda dik il-belt fejn hu ħadem u miet.

Parenteżi: San Gejtanu twieled minn familja nobbli f’Vicenza, u studja għal avukat. Kellu d-dinja taħt subgħajh – imbagħad ġie l-mument ta’ kriżi, ċaħad kollox u għażel il-faqar u li jaħdem mal-batut u mal-marid.

Il-mixi dak li jagħmillek. Iġegħlek tħares, u taħseb. Iktar ma nimxi iktar ninduna b’affarjiet. Kien hemm min qalli ‘għax int negattiv’ – dan kollu għax nikteb kontra dak li hu ikrah, kemm minn barra u kemm minn ġewwa. Jista’ jkun. Iżda nistedinkom tibdew timxu, u forsi taraw dak li nara jien.

Hemm barra, lil hinn mill-ħitan taċ-ċokon ta’ djarna, mill-għeluq tal-kaxxi tal-ħadid bir-roti li jwassluna minn gabuba għall-oħra, fid-dinja reali li ma tużax algoritmi u ma tħallikx tagħżel, hemmhekk hemm għalxiex ninkwetaw.

Għaliex jekk qed inqaċċtu s-siġar biex inwessgħu t-toroq, dan qed isir għax ma fadal ħadd biex jimxi fid-dell tal-friegħi. Jekk qegħdin nibnu kull roqgħa art, dan għaliex insejna kif naħdmu r-raba. Jekk barra l-arja hi tqila bit-trab u d-dħaħen, dan għaliex issakkarna f’darna għall-kenn ta’ prodotti kimiċi varji, u purifikaturi tal-arja.

U għalhekk għamilt wegħda fuq Santu Kristu – biex insib is-saħħa noħroġ mill-kumdità ta’ dari, u nara d-dinja għal li hi. U għal min jaf, wegħda fuq Santu Kristu, ma tinħallx minnha malajr.

The First Step

Jekk trid taqra dan l-artiklu bil-Malti agħfas hawn.

There are many reasons for a pilgrimage. Some do it for religious reasons, others for spiritual reasons, and many for the sheer joy of walking. Pilgrimage might seem an anachronistic activity, particularly in today’s ‘progressive’ Western world. And yet, statistics show otherwise.

For example, over the past twenty years the number of pilgrims doing the Camino has risen from a mere 20,000 to over 300,000 per year. And it’s not just the Camino – there are many other pilgrimage routes one can take. Some take weeks, others can take a couple of hours of your life. Because for the pilgrim it is neither time nor distance that matter but intent.

I have no problems saying that a greater part of it for me is spiritual. I do not expect some great spiritual awakening – I believe that Faith is much harder work than going for a long walk. But it is the joy of rediscovering the world through one’s feet, and being thankful for it. I also wanted to engage with that most basic form of transportation, the one that pushed the human race out of Africa thousands of years ago and led us, for better or worse, to where we are today.

And the need to walk has never been so more pressing and more radical than it is today. As the planet faces a climactic meltdown, and as people become more and more absorbed in an unreal and isolated digital world, walking becomes a basic means of rebellion and salvation.

It is rebellious because walking defies traffic systems, and does not rely on technology or maps. It is also a source of salvation because it has negligible environmental impact and enormous health benefits, both physical and psychological. Whether it is walking alone or in company, it is ultimately about carrying your own weight in the world.

But a pilgrimage is not just any walk. It is walking with a purpose and a destination. Some might think that a pilgrimage is about penance or supplication, but it is not. It is about an act that we have almost completely forgotten in today’s world: thankfulness. Upon completing a pilgrimage, no matter how short, the feeling is one of gratitude and joy.

But there is a dark side.

Pilgrimages make you face the world. It forces you to face outwards and inwards. You get to meet strangers, and see dark impoverished corners of the world. Then there are moments of loneliness, where you will have to face your demons – and they do not make terribly great hiking companions. Walking makes you feel small.

Cars parked on the church parvis.
Church of St Anthony, Għajn Dwieli, Paola

I also hail from a country not exactly known for its sporting prowess – Malta is one of the laziest and fattest countries in Europe, if not the world. Rather ironic, given that the country is so small. You could cross the whole country on foot in one day.

I hope that through this simple blog you too will rediscover the joy of walking – whatever your reasons for it. I will post about routes, places & spaces, and ideas. I will also try to translate all content in Maltese as well, so it will be accessible to all.