Route 2: St Gregory’s Pilgrimage

Distance: 17km (20km if you include the final extra journey to St Thomas Bay)
Duration: 4hrs (add another 30min for the extra part)
Difficulty: Intermediate

The origins of the annual St Gregory’s pilgrimage are shrouded in mystery, with various dates and possible motivations proposed. The first secure reference comes from 1543 when Bishop Cubelles called for an annual pilgrimage on the 12th of March (the old feast day for Pope St Gregory). In the past this used to involve all the Confraternities from all the Malta parishes, as well as the Mdina Cathedral Chapter. The Cathedral Chapter would leave from Mdina and meet all the others at Tarxien Parish Church and from there they would all walk to St Gregory’s Church in Żejtun.

Nowadays, the pilgrimage is held on the first Wednesday after Easter, and it is a small affair leaving from the small Church of St Clement in Żejtun. This pilgrimage route is an attempt to revive that tradition with a proper pilgrimage leaving from Mdina and passing by some of Malta’s most important churches. The route is listed as ‘Intermediate’ for despite its length, it is mostly downhill.

1. Cathedral of the Conversion of St Paul, Mdina

This route departs from the island’s prime church in Mdina. This makes this particular starting point not only a spectacular one, but also convenient since it is easily accessible by public transport. Take some time to admire the beautiful Baroque architecture of the Cathedral, designed in the late 17th century by Lorenzo Gafa.

2. Church of Saint Agatha, Mdina

A few metres away from the Cathedral, as you are exiting Mdina, lies the small church of St Agatha. I have included this in the itinerary because St Agatha is one of the island’s three patron saints (along with St Paul and St Publius). This Sicilian saint enjoys a strong cult in the Rabat area that has its roots in Medieval times.

Once you are out of Mdina, you can start the long descent towards Ħaż-Żebbuġ by going down a part of Saqqajja Hill. Warning: this stretch of road is treacherous, but you will soon be able to come off it by going down Triq it-Tiġrija (Race Street), so named because horse racing has been held on special feast days along this road. You can still see the Loggia at the top of the street, once reserved for the Grand Master and local dignitaries.

This is now followed by a long and beautiful road across the countryside – a rarity in Malta nowadays. Although this road is relatively quiet, some still hang on to the racing tradition by driving at breakneck speed, so always be on your guard. You will eventually reach the outskirts of Ħaż-Żebbuġ, but not without passing by the Gianpula Club, and the Ħaż-Żebbuġ cemetery.

3. Church of Our Lady of Graces, Ħaż-Żebbuġ

Upon reaching Ħaż-Żebbuġ, you should take Triq tal-Grazzja, which is one of the main streets traversing the old village core. On your right you will pass by the small Church of Our Lady of Grace. This little church is still much beloved by the local community, and even gets its own little festa in late September. You can then proceed towards the parish church in the village centre.

4. Parish Church of Saint Philip of Agira, Ħaż-Żebbuġ

This magnificent church is one of the oldest parish churches in Malta, and is mentioned as early as 1436. The dedication is also curious: St Philip (not to be confused with the Apostle of the same name) is a minor Siclian saint whose cult is centred in Agira. The presence of his cult in Malta is evidence of Malta’s historic links with the neighbouring island. If you are lucky enough to find the church open, take time to admire its beautifully sculpted altars, and the statue of Saint Philip which has the distinction of being Malta’s only devotional statue made from solid silver.

5. Church of Saint Roque, Ħaż-Żebbuġ

You can walk a little further until you reach Triq il-Kbira (Main Street), which leads you out of Ħaż-Żebbuġ. Along the way you pass by the beautiful church of Saint Roque, built in 1593 following an outbreak of the plage. St Roque was the saint popularly invoked against the plague and he enjoyed a strong cult up until the mid-19th century when the plague had all but died out. Walking further you will find De Rohan Gate: a triumphal arch built in 1797 to commemorate the elevation of the village to a ‘city’ by Grand Master De Rohan in 1777. From here you need to cross the busy road (pedestrian lights available), and proceed towards Tal-Ħlas

6. Church of the Assumption ‘Tal-Ħlas’, Ħal Qormi

This beautiful church was once a very important pilgrimage church, as witnessed by the porticos on either side of the church parvis. The appellation ‘Tal-Ħlas’ has two possible meanings – either ‘ransom’ (a reference to the ransom of slaves) or ‘childbirth’ (a reference to the many prayers offered for deliverance during the risky business of childbirth). From here you can start the descent towards Ħal Qormi, which takes you to the new housing estate of Ta’ Farsina, and then down to the old village core.

7. Parish Church of St George, Ħal Qormi

This is another of Malta’s medieval parish (there are still some relics of the old medieval church in the new edifice and the adjacent parish museum). The facade is a beautiful example of Maltese Renaissance architecture. Going up along Triq il-Kbira (Main Street) takes you through the beautiful village core.

8. Church of St Francis, Ħal Qormi

Although this church is popularly known as St Francis, it is not dedicated to the more popular St Francis of Assisi, but St Francis de Paule patron saint of mariners. Back in the days when most people plied their trade at sea, this saint enjoyed a great cultic following. The church, recently restored, is a miniature gem of Maltese Baroque architecture. Keep walking up along the main street, and you will reach the Eastern end of the village.

9. Old Parish Church of St Sebastian, Ħal Qormi

St Sebastian is another saint invoked against the plague, and his cult received fresh impetus after the plague of 1813 which hit Ħal Qormi particularly badly. By 1889 this little church had been built and a community flourished in this end of the village, and by 1936 a new parish was formed.

10. Parish Church of St Sebastian, Ħal Qormi

The new parish church is a stone’s throw away from the old church. Plans for a new church were drawn in 1937, as soon as the new parish had been set up. Although the building suffered a lot of delays, mostly because of the Second World War, the imposing building was completed by the 1980s. You can still admire the Art Deco aesthetic, making it a unique example of its kind in Malta.

Once you leave this church you will have to proceed towards the Marsa Sports Grounds. This is the least scenic part of this route, and be sure to use the pedestrian crossings to go to the other side. Upon reaching the bus terminus, you can walk through the Marsa Sports Grounds – a welcome breath of fresh air in this overbuilt (and badly built) area. Make sure you use the overpass to cross into Albert Town until you reach the junction near Addolorata Cemetery. From there you can enter Paola from Triq l-Arkata (Arch Street). This is the only tough ascent along this route.

11. Church of Saint Ubaldesca, Paola

The tough uphill is rewarded with the charming square that is dominated by the church of St Ubaldesca. This obscure female saint is a testament to the 17th century origins of Paola, which was founded by Grand Master Antoine de Paule (hence the name Paola). The original church, built in 1630, was much smaller. The present structure is an extension built in 1900. You can still see the extent of the original church at the back of the edifice.

12. Parish Church of Christ the King, Paola

A few blocks away lies the modern heart of Paola, dominated by the imposing church dedicated to Christ the King built to the plans of Ġuże Damato. This church has witnessed a remarkable transformation in recent years, with several important maintenance and embellishment programmes, as well as pastoral and community projects, that have made it a role model for a contemporary parish. From here you can proceed towards Ħal Tarxien by walking along the street that bears the village name.

13. Parish Church of the Annunciation, Ħal Tarxien

The route approaches this beautiful Baroque Church from behind, so do take your time to admire the impressive facade. Particularly interesting are the two bell towers with conical spires, a rare feature in Maltese ecclesiastical architecture. In the past, this was the church from which the St Gregory procession with all the Confraternities used to start. The remaining route will retrace that same path. One hopes that in the near future this procession is revived in its original form.

14. Church of St Bartholomew, Ħal Tarxien

The pilgrimage route passes through the old village core which was dominated by the parish church on one end, and this beautiful Baroque church at the other end. Evidence of the importance of this street can be found in the surrounding palaces (such as Palazzo Abela right in front of the church). As you leave the old village core, you will pass by Villa Barbaro, a rare surviving example of a country palace predating the Great Siege of 1565. From here onwards it is a straight route towards Bulebel Industrial Estate. A little detour to cross the busy Triq San Anard (St Leonard Street) using the pedestrian lights is highly recommended. Despite the route going through an Industrial Estate, the road is surprisingly inoffensive. You will eventually reach the southern end of Żejtun.

15. Church of the Holy Spirit, Żejtun

The mild uphill takes you right towards Żejtun village core, and past the charming church dedicated to the Holy Spirit. The present church is the result of late 18th century modifications. The original 17th century church faced the parallel Triq San Luċjan (Saint Lucian Street). It is worth remembering that up until the 18th century, the parish church of Żejtun was the church of St Gregory (which back then was dedicated to St Catherine, and which is the final destination of this pilgrimage route). When the present church of St Catherine was built, the main route into the village from Ħal Tarxien changed slightly, and the reorientation of this church reflects that new route.

16. Parish Church of St Catherine, Żejtun

This magnificent Baroque temple was designed by Lorenzo Gafà, architect of the Mdina Cathedral that formed the start of this pilgrimage route. The building fully deserves its honorific title of ‘Cathedral of the South’. Approaching this church from the narrow Triq Santa Katerina (St Catherine Street), as is the case in this route, plays on the Baroque sense of urban drama, as the pilgrim stumbles on the monumental building. The final part of the journey takes you along the aptly named Triq San Girgor (St Gregory Street), along one of the most elegant streets in Malta. The Neo-Romanesque Church of Jesus of Nazareth and Convent are worth admiring along the way.

17. Church of St Gregory, Żejtun

The final destination is the late Medieval church of St Gregory. The low dome, enclosed parvis, and adjacent cemetery are a rare example of an intact Medieval sacred space (despite several later interventions). The church itself, with its low-vaulted pointed arches, is one of my personal favourite sacred spaces in Malta.

The extra mile…

The pilgrimage of St Gregory is traditionally the first swim of the season in Malta. You can take the long downhill along Triq id-Daħla ta’ San Tumas (St Thomas Bay Road) until you reach St Thomas Bay and reward yourself with a swim in the crystal clear waters.

Route 1: The Seven St Marys (1)

Distance: 17.7km
Duration: 4hrs 15min
Difficulty: Advanced

In the past it was common to visit seven churches dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin, whose feast falls on the 15th of August. This most important of feasts marks the culmination of the summer season, and it seems a good place to start for what I hope to be a series of short pilgrimage routes that can be made in Malta. If you follow this pilgrimage route in the week leading up to the feast you will also have the added benefit of walking through richly decorated streets. This remains a special route to me because it was my first official pilgrimage route in preparation for the Camino de Santiago.

Note

This route takes you through seven churches dedicated to St Mary, but there are plenty more. There are the seven official ones spread across Malta (making it an impractical pilgrimage route, especially if you do it on the feast day proper). There are other possible routes, and in the future I will present alternative routes.

1 – Basilica of the Assumption, Mosta

Not only is this one of the more important churches in Malta, its magnificent architecture make it a memorable start. Do take time to visit the church – a short moment of silence can go along way before a long journey! Then take Eucharistic Congress street in front of the church, and out towards Ħ’Attard, taking time to admire the beautiful houses on each side.

Festa

If you are lucky to be there in mid August, take time to admire the beautiful 19th century decorations around the massive piazza, most of which are in papier-maché by Carlo Darmanin. Particularly delightful is the small group of three putti holding the monogram ‘MA’ (Maria Assumpta) on main street just off the main square.

If you follow the map you will reach the Pama Shopping centre – take a right on Triq Pantar. Warning – this stretch of road is dangerous with no pavement. You will then reach the outskirts of Ħ’Attard. This end of the village does not make for a terribly exciting walk, but once you reach the far end of Triq il-Mosta, you will be rewarded with one of the most charming villages in central Malta. This street takes you right in front of the parish church.

2 – Parish Church of the Assumption, Ħ’Attard

Unlike the majestic (and overwhelming) Rotunda of Mosta, this church is a beautiful late Renaissance masterpiece by Tumas Dingli. Take time to admire its richly decorated facade, and if it is open, the harmonious interior. Following the map, you will eventually reach Triq il-Linja (Railway Street) which follows part of the old railway tracks up until the crossroads with Triq l-Imrieħel. Although you could follow the path of the old tracks a little longer, the little detour marked on the map means that you approach the next stop from the front, to great dramatic effect.

Festa

If you happen to be there during the festa season, the route takes you through Triq il-Mosta and Triq Anton Schembri, which have the bulk of festa decorations. Enjoy passing through the triumphal arch as you make your way out of the church!

3 – Parish Church of the Assumption, Birkirkara

The next stop is another wonderful late Renaissance gem by Tumas Dingli. The church seems oddly placed in the midst of mostly post-1980s buildings, and the building seems almost derelict. This was the old parish church of Birkirkara, before the bigger Basilica of St Helen was built on the other side of the valley in the 18th century. For many years the church was abandoned, and it was only in recent decades, when a new residential quarter arose in the vicinity, that it was restored. The interior is bare, but worth admiring if you are lucky to find the church open.

Festa

Since this is a relatively new community and parish, there are no outdoor festivities, but at least the church is more likely to be open! Admire the intricate stonework all around the church!

The old railway station lies to the left of the church, and you can proceed once again along the old railway route all the way to Ħamrun. Turning at the church of St Francis leads you towards Ħamrun’s centre. A little detour ensure you also get to pass the beautiful Baroque gem of Our Lady of Porto Salvo, and the parish church of St Cajetan. Going uphill on Duke of Edinburgh Street leads you to the next stop.

4 – Church of the Assumption, Ħamrun (aka Tas-Samra)

This beautiful 17th century church is truly a hidden gem. Rebuilt in the 17th century over the ruins of an older church dedicated to St Nicholas, the church houses a ‘black Madonna’ – Our Lady of Atocia (which is a copy of one in Madrid). This black Madonna gave the church the nickname ‘Tas-Samra’ (the Dark One). The porticoed entrance is evidence of it being a ‘pilgrimage’ church, with such porticoes intended to give pilgrims some respite from the elements. The surrounding streets are the old nucleus of Ħamrun, which developed from a tiny hamlet with scattered houses to a thriving late Victorian town.

Festa

This is one of the little surprises along this route. There is a small festa complete with outdoor decorations, procession and statue of Mary ascending to heaven. Everything is on a small scale, making it a delightful stop right halfway through this pilgrimage.

This stop is followed by the least exciting part of the route as you descend towards Marsa and Albert Town. Although I have never experienced any form of harassment or bother, this area does have a reputation, and some caution is advised. However, I have often walked or cycled through these streets even late at night and never experienced anything bad or even mildly uncomfortable. You will eventually reach the busy Addolorata Cemetery junction. There are pedestrian lights, but caution is advised – many drivers still struggle to understand the difference between a red light and a green light!

Once you reach Paola, go up Triq l-Arkata where you can admire the sadly neglected Perellos Palace on the right at the lower end, and the church of Saint Ubaldesca at the top the hill. This is the old nucleus of Paola, named after Grand Master Antoine de Paule who founded the settlement in 1626. A little further up leads you to Paola’s main square with the majestic church dedicated to Christ the King. Turning left, you will start walking towards the old village of Tarxien.

5 – Church of the Assumption, Ħal Tarxien (aka tar-Rokna)

This wonderful little church was originally probably called Santa Maria della Rocca (i.e. built on a rocky outcrop) but the term got corrupted to ‘tar-Rokna’ (on the corner / in an alley ). It is a beautiful little church complete with its own little parvis, a dome, and two small bell towers.

Festa

Believe it or not this church has its own little festa (generally held on the Sunday after the 15th of August). It is a small affair – an outdoor meal with entertainment, but it is a beautiful expression of community unity.

You will now proceed towards the two final important stages – Gudja and Ħal Għaxaq. WARNING: This is the most dangerous part of your walk – crossing the Tal-Barrani bypass to go to the other side is a feat. You have to use the traffic lights system at the junction with Triq San Anard (the main road leading towards Bulebel) which were not designed for pedestrians!

Going up Triq Ħal Tarxien you will pass by the late Medieval chapel of St Lucy, and eventually reach the beautiful Palazzo Bettina. Keep going straight on into Gudja, past the church of Saint Catherine, until you reach the main square.

6 – Parish Church of the Assumption, Gudja

The parish church dominates the small piazza. The facade is a relatively recent addition, but the rest is another beautiful 17th century edifice designed by Tumas Dingli. If the church is open it is well worth a visit.

Festa

Gudja’s feast is the least popular of the major feasts of the Assumption being celebrated around Malta & Gozo, which is a pity given that it is a charming village with huge potential. There has been a small revival over recent years, and the decorations in the main square are being slowly upgraded.

Taking the narrow road in front of the church you will find yourself in the newer parts of the village and eventually in the outskirts of Ħal Għaxaq. Crossing the Ħal Għaxaq bypass you will find yourself next to the exquisite porticoed church of St Philip Neri, and a few meters away you will reach St Roque’s square. Taking the road in front of the statue, you will pass by the ‘Seashell House’ – a beautiful example of vernacular design, until you reach your final destination.

7. Parish Church of the Assumption, Ħal Għaxaq

The magnificent Baroque church of the Assumption dominates the beautiful village square. The interior not only houses Mariano Gerada’s sculptural masterpiece from 1808 depicting the Assumption of the Virgin, but also great works of art by the likes of Gian Nicola Buhagiar, Francesco Zahra, Giuseppe Vella, and Emvin Cremona.

Festa

The grandiose church is complimented by beautiful decorations, including statues by Vincenzo Cremona and Carlo Darmanin from the 19th century. The towering group depicting the Coronation of the Virgin is the jewel in the crown. Worthy of note are the fireworks displays, especially those held on the eve of the festa.

This represents the end of this pilgrimage route. If you walk down Triq Santa Marija towards Żejtun you will reach Bir id-Deheb and from there you can get buses back to Valletta. There are also buses on the Ħal Għaxaq bypass (which you would have crossed coming from Gudja), but these might be less frequent.

You must think me mad…

Jekk trid taqra dan l-artiklu bil-Malti agħfas hawn.

You must think me mad. As you pass me by in your steel boxes you call ‘cars’. I admit, sometimes I feel self-conscious, especially if I’m walking on a main road with no pavements. Until I see you there, locked up in your luxury boxes, impatient and irate…and I feel better.

Please, don’t take offence, but sometimes I wish I could film you so you can see yourselves. Grey faces, eyes staring into the void, and that hurried look upon you as you dash from one cell to another. Yes – our concrete houses, our luxury restaurants, our shops full of ‘stuff’…nothing more than cells.

That is why I walk, to escape from this prison that we have built for ourselves.

I haven’t quite totally escaped…I still run around with my mobile phone snapping pics and uploading them online. Maybe it’s a force of habit…and maybe it’s the desire to share all that I see with you. Maybe…just maybe…you will also escape from your cell. Maybe I will no longer walk alone…

Would you like to know why we have lost our towns and villages? Why our houses have fallen prey to developers? Why our squares and pavements have been taken over by restaurants and cafeterias? Why our streets have become one giant parking lot?

Because we have abandoned walking, and our country is no longer ours. I walk the streets on a Sunday morning (or afternoon, or evening), and it’s deserted. And this on a beautiful Spring day! Even Sliema waterfront – you can see them walking from the car to the restaurant and back. A few steps, and they’re already tired.

You must be wondering, ‘What on earth is he on about? The Front is full of people! I’ve been to Dingli Cliffs, and there were many ramblers!’

Indeed, but how many of them are Maltese? You can spot the Maltese from miles. The car comfortably near…and generally carrying their kitchens, living rooms, and bedrooms. Because that is what we have been taught. Now that we are Independent, now we have stuff. And to show everyone how much ‘stuff’ I own, I’ll carry it with me everywhere. God forbid those in the car next to mine see me without a table, and chairs, and dishes, and plastic cups, and plastic plates, and plastic bags…

Plastic…most of it ends up in the countryside…

And I walk along alone. If I eat, I eat while walking. If I drink, I drink while walking. And if I smile…it’s because I’m walking.

You must think me mad…

Taħsbuni miġnun…

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Taħsbuni miġnun. Intom u għaddejjin ġewwa l-kaxxi tal-azzar li ssejħu ‘karozzi’ – taħsbuni miġnun miexi waħdi. Kultant nammetti – inħossni konxju, speċjalment meta nkun għaddej f’xi triq prinċipali fejn bankini ma jeżistux. Sakemm narakom hemm maqfulin ġol-gaġeġ lussużi tagħkom, indannati u mgħaġġlin…u jgħaddili.

Tiħdux għalikom iżda nixtieq kultant niġbdilkom vidjow u taraw daqxejn kif tkunu. Uċuh griżi, għajnejn imberrqin, u b’dik il-ħarsa mgħaġġla hekk kif tiġru minn ċella għall-oħra. Iva – djarna tal-konkos, ir-ristoranti lussużi, il-ħwienet imburġati affarjiet…mhumiex ħlief ċelel.

Għalhekk nimxi, għax irrid naħrab mill-ħabs illi bnejna għalina nfusna.

Għadni ma ħrabtx għal kollox tafux…xorta bil-mowbajl f’idi indur u niġbed ir-ritratti u ntellagħhom online. Forsi vizzju…u forsi x-xewqa li naqsam dak li qed nara magħkom, forsi ma tafx kif, taħarbu miċ-ċella tagħkom intom ukoll. Forsi ma nibqax nimxi waħdi…

Tridu tifhmu għalfejn tlifna l-ibliet u rħulha tagħna? Tafu għalxiex id-djar tagħna waqgħu f’idejn l-iżviluppatur? Għalfejn il-pjazez u l-bankini marru għand ir-ristoranti u l-kafeteriji? Għalfejn it-toroq tagħna huma biss parkeġġ bla tmiem?

Għaliex abbandunajna l-mixi, u pajjiżna m’għadux tagħna. Tgħaddi minn ġot-toroq il-Ħadd filgħodu (jew wara nofsinhar jew filgħaxija) u baħħ totali. U dan fil-jiem sbieħ tar-Rebbiegħa! Anke x-xatt ta’ tas-Sliema – tarahom mill-karozza għar-ristorant u lura. Żewġ passi, u daqshekk jgħejjew.

Nagħmilkom tgħiduli, ‘X’int tgħid? Ix-Xatt mimli jkun! U mort sal-irdumijiet ta’ Ħad-Dingli u tgħidx kemm rajt nies jimxu!’

Iva vera, iżda ara kemm minnhom huma Maltin. Tagħrafhom lill-Maltin. Il-karozza dejjem viċin…u ġeneralment iġorru l-kċina, s-salott, u l-kamra tas-sodda magħhom. Għax hekk tgħallimna. Issa li aħna Indipendenti – eee issa għandna l-affarjiet tagħna! U biex nuri kemm huma ‘tiegħi’ l-affarjiet, inġorr kollox miegħi. Ma jmurx tal-karozza ta’ ħdejja jarawni bla mejda, u siġġijiet, u dixxijiet, u tazzi tal-plastik, u platti tal-plastik, u boroż tal-plastik…

Plastik…nofsu jispiċċa barra…

U jien għaddej waħdi miexi. Jekk niekol, waqt li miexi. Jekk nixrob, waqt li miexi. U jekk nitbissem…għax miexi.

Taħsbuni miġnun…

L-Ewwel Pass

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Hemm ħafna raġunijiet għalfejn wieħed jagħmel pellegrinaġġ. Hemm min jagħmilha għal raġunijiet reliġjużi, oħrajna għal raġunijiet spiritwali, u ħafna oħrajn għall-gost tal-mixi. Forsi wieħed jaħseb li pellegrinaġġ hi xi ħaġa antikwata, speċjalment fid-dinja ‘progressiva’ tal-lum. Iżda l-istatistika turi mod ieħor.

Per eżempju, f’dawn l-aħħar 20 sena in-numru ta’ pellegrini li għamlu l-Camino kiber minn 20,000 għal 300,000 pellegrin fis-sena. U mhux biss il-Camino – hemm diversi rotot li wieħed jista’ jieħu. Uħud jieħdu ġimgħat, u oħrajn jieħdu biss ftit siegħat. Għax għall-pellegrin mhux il-ħin jew it-tul li jimporta, iżda l-iskop.

Ma niddejjaqx ngħid li għalija r-raġuni hi waħda spiritwali. Miniex nistenna xi epifanija spiritwali – nemmen li l-Fidi fiha iżjed xogħol iebes minn sempliċi mixja. Iżda hi l-hena li terġa tiskorpi d-dinja permezz ta’ saqajk, u tkun grat għaliha. Ridt ukoll nerġa niskopri dak il-mod ta’ trasport mill-iktar bażiku – dak li ġiegħel lill-bniedem joħroġ mill-Afrika eluf ta’ snin ilu u wassalna (bit-tajjeb u l-ħażin kollu) fejn ninsabu llum.

There are many reasons for a pilgrimage. Some do it for religious reasons, others for spiritual reasons, and many for the sheer joy of walking. Pilgrimage might seem an anachronistic activity, particularly in today’s ‘progressive’ Western world. And yet, statistics show otherwise.

U l-bżonn li nimxu qatt ma kien daqshekk urġenti daqs kemm hu llum. Hekk kif il-pjaneta tagħna riesqa dejjem iktar qrib diżastru klimatiku, u hekk kif iktar u iktar nies qegħdin jinqabdu f’dinja diġitali surreali u iżolata, il-mixi jsir att sempliċi ta’ ribeljoni u salvazzjoni.

Huwa att ribeljuż għaliex il-mixi jisfida kull sistema ta’ traffiku, u ma jiddependix fuq mapep jew teknoloġiji. Huwa wkoll sors ta’ salvazzjoni għaliex iħalli impatt ambjentali negliġibbli, u benefiċċji għas-saħħa, fiżika u mentali, enormi. Sew jekk ħa timxi waħdek jew man-nies, fl-aħħar mill-aħħar huwa int qed iġorr lilek innifsek fid-dinja.

Iżda pellegrinaġġ mhuwiex mixja kwalunkwe. Pellegrinaġġ hu mixja bi skop u destinazzjoni. Hemm min jaħseb li pellegrinaġġ huwa xi penitenza jew talba mqanqla, iżda xejn minn dan. Huwa att ta’ xi ħaġa li kważi tlifna: gratitudni. Fl-aħħar ta’ pellegrinaġġ wieħed iħoss hena u gratitudni.

Iżda hemm ukoll il-ħażin tagħha l-ħaġa.

Il-pellegrinaġġi jġegħluk taffaċja lid-dinja. Iġegħluk tħares ‘il barra u ‘l ġewwa. Tiltaqa’ ma’ barranin, u żżur irkejjen moħbija tad-dinja. Imbagħad hemm mumenti ta’ solitudni fejn trid taffaċċa x-xjaten ta’ ġo fik – u dawn ma tantx huma kumpanija tajba għall-mixi. Il-mixi iċekknek.

Karozzi pparkjati fuq iz-zuntier.
Knisja ta’ Sant’Antnin, Għajn Dwieli, Paola

Jien ukoll ġej minn pajjiż li mhux eżattament magħruf għal ħiliet sportivi tiegħu – Malta hi waħda mill-iktar pajjiżi għażżenin u ħoxnin tad-dinja. Hija ħaġa ironika meta tqis iċ-ċokon tagħna.Wieħed jista’ faċilment jaqsam il-pajjiż f’ġurnata bil-mixi.

Nittama li permezz ta’ dan il-blog sempliċi intom tiskopru wkoll il-ġmiel tal-mixi – jkunu xi jkunu r-raġunijiet għalfejn timxu. Ser nikteb dwar rotot, postijiet, u ideat. Ħa nipprova wkoll nikteb kemm bil-Malti kif ukoll bl-Ingliż ħalli jkun aċċessibli għal kulħadd.

The First Step

Jekk trid taqra dan l-artiklu bil-Malti agħfas hawn.

For example, over the past twenty years the number of pilgrims doing the Camino has risen from a mere 20,000 to over 300,000 per year. And it’s not just the Camino – there are many other pilgrimage routes one can take. Some take weeks, others can take a couple of hours of your life. Because for the pilgrim it is neither time nor distance that matter but intent.

I have no problems saying that a greater part of it for me is spiritual. I do not expect some great spiritual awakening – I believe that Faith is much harder work than going for a long walk. But it is the joy of rediscovering the world through one’s feet, and being thankful for it. I also wanted to engage with that most basic form of transportation, the one that pushed the human race out of Africa thousands of years ago and led us, for better or worse, to where we are today.

And the need to walk has never been so more pressing and more radical than it is today. As the planet faces a climactic meltdown, and as people become more and more absorbed in an unreal and isolated digital world, walking becomes a basic means of rebellion and salvation.

It is rebellious because walking defies traffic systems, and does not rely on technology or maps. It is also a source of salvation because it has negligible environmental impact and enormous health benefits, both physical and psychological. Whether it is walking alone or in company, it is ultimately about carrying your own weight in the world.

But a pilgrimage is not just any walk. It is walking with a purpose and a destination. Some might think that a pilgrimage is about penance or supplication, but it is not. It is about an act that we have almost completely forgotten in today’s world: thankfulness. Upon completing a pilgrimage, no matter how short, the feeling is one of gratitude and joy.

But there is a dark side.

Pilgrimages make you face the world. It forces you to face outwards and inwards. You get to meet strangers, and see dark impoverished corners of the world. Then there are moments of loneliness, where you will have to face your demons – and they do not make terribly great hiking companions. Walking makes you feel small.

Cars parked on the church parvis.
Church of St Anthony, Għajn Dwieli, Paola

I also hail from a country not exactly known for its sporting prowess – Malta is one of the laziest and fattest countries in Europe, if not the world. Rather ironic, given that the country is so small. You could cross the whole country on foot in one day.

I hope that through this simple blog you too will rediscover the joy of walking – whatever your reasons for it. I will post about routes, places & spaces, and ideas. I will also try to translate all content in Maltese as well, so it will be accessible to all.