Route 10: The Way of the Cross

Distance: 12km
Duration: 3hrs
Difficulty: Intermediate

This pilgrimage route starts off from the Church of Christ the Redeemer (aka Santu Kristu) in Ħal Għaxaq – a spot that has particular importance for this whole pilgrimage project and which you can read about here. It will take you through the beautiful villages of Ħal Għaxaq, Il-Gudja, L-Imqabba, and then to the outskirts of Siġġiewi. It will take you from the Redeemer Church (traditionally Christ carrying the cross) all the way up to the cross perched high on a hill. You can live this experience in many ways, either by looking at the religious symbolism of going up the Calvary, a more philosophical approach to life’s uphill struggles, or simply enjoy the walk. The only taxing part is the uphill climb towards the Laferla Cross (aka L-Għolja tas-Salib) – but you will be rewarded with spectacular views.

1. Church of Christ the Redeemer (Santu Kristu), Ħal Għaxaq

The pilgrimage starts off from Santu Kristu – a beautiful 19th century country church that started off as a vow. The short version of the story tells of how a certain Mikelanġ Zammit vowed to build a niche (there are different variations as to how that resolution came about), only to have his enthusiasm wane after a while. Some time later as he was passing by the intended spot, he lost control of his horse/mule and escaped unscathed. He took that as a sign and in 1807 he erected a niche. Eventually, a church was built on the spot as devotion grew. From here walk towards Ħal Għaxaq and just before entering the village take a left. This tiny detour is worth taking as it offers a beautiful entry into the main square and offers the full impact of the next church.

2. Parish Church of the Assumption, Ħal Għaxaq

This church has featured in several of my routes – and honestly cannot get enough of it. Unlike many other Baroque churches, this church (completed in 1760 to plans by Sebastiano Saliba) does not suffer from architectural heaviness. Instead its elongated plan and high elevation are perfectly proportionate to its surroundings. Facing church, take the alleyway on the left, which meanders until you reach another square.

3. Church of St Philip Neri, Ħal Għaxaq

This little gem was built in 1761 to plans by Sebastiano Saliba, the same architect who designed the parish church we have just seen. St Philip Neri is a fascinating figure – and very important to the history of pilgrimages. He was a key player in the Counter-Reformation who advocated a new simpler approach to faith, especially among Rome’s poor. In 1548 he founded the Confraternity of the Holy Trinity to take care of the many pilgrims in Rome. Interestingly, this church possesses an elegant portico which was generally built as shelter for pilgrims – although in this case there is no evidence that it was ever a place of pilgrimage.

Take a left out of the village, and cross the by-pass. Take a moment to admire the British Semaphore Tower (one of three built in 1848) – known locally as it-Turretta. From here the road winds down towards Gudja. The area is mostly residential units from the eighties onwards. From here we can enter Gudja from Triq San Ċiru.

4. Parish Church of the Assumption, Il-Gudja

The imposing facade of the parish church emerges out of the narrow streets. Although the facade is the result of a mid-20th century extension, the rest of the church is pretty much in its original 17th century state as designed by Tumas Dingli. It is also the only church in Malta to boast three bell-towers – two on the facade, and one on its right-hand side designed by William Baker in 1858. Turn right and take the small road on the left (not the main road which leads you out of the village).

5. Church of the Annunciation, Il-Gudja

The current church is the third one to be built on this site, and dates from 1754. The church’s front door is often left open, and you can admire it from behind an internal iron gate. It is finely decorated, with a fine altarpiece by Pietro Gagliardi painted in 1871. If the church is closed, you can still admire the beautiful exterior, and the unusual single belfry above the main door.

6. Church of the Assumption, Bir Miftuħ

Keep walking straight ahead, but take a left before you leave the village proper. This street will take you towards the other end of the village, where you can take a narrow country lane towards the medieval church of Bir Miftuħ. This is possibly one of the most important sites from Late Medieval Malta, and you can find detailed information here. This was the original parish church of the area, which served several surrounding hamlets including Ħal Kirkop, Ħal Safi, l-Imqabba, and il-Gudja. The current edifice is in reality only the front nave of a much larger cross-shaped church that was dismantled some time in the early modern period. Unfortunately the church is only open on the first Sunday of each month, but well worth a visit.

From here onwards we are faced with the least attractive part of the walk, as we go onto the by-pass, and cross towards Ħal Kirkop, by means of the long and dreary tunnel underneath the airport runway. Maybe this could be an opportunity for you to reflect on the way modernity has separated whole communities through roads and runways – and relegating us into the false comforts of a virtual world.

As soon as you get out of the tunnel, take a right (do not go into Ħal Kirkop). Another long stretch of road faces us. If anything, this soul-less stretch of road will make you quicken your pace so you reach l-Imqabba sooner. Once you reach Valletta Road, things start getting better. This tree-lined avenue is a rare sight nowadays, and will provide some welcome shade. Upon entering the village, take a left and keep walking straight on. Whether you follow Triq San Bażilju or take Triq Lanġasa you will still get to the same spot.

7. Churches of St Basil & St Michael, l-Imqabba

All the ugliness you had to walk through to reach l-Imqabba will melt away when you reach this slice of the past. Tucked away behind an iron gate are two small churches that are a rare remnant of our medieval past when such church couplings were common (sometimes even groups of three or four churches). The oldest of these is that of Saint Basil, which is already mentioned in documents in 1486. Its Norman architecture is a testament to its antiquity, and it also holds the honour of being the only church dedicated to this Greek saint. St Michael’s Church was built adjacent to it around 1550, although the present edifice is probably the result of 17th century restructuring.

8. Parish Church of the Assumption, l-Imqabba

A few steps away lies yet another Baroque church dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin. This church was completed in 1599. Sadly, it was badly hit in WWII, with the dome and south transept almost completely rebuilt. Although perhaps not as imposing as other Baroque churches in Malta, it still possesses a certain charm. From here, take the narrow street just opposite the church – another typically charming village street that Mqabba is so full of.

9. Church of Our Lady of Sorrows, l-Imqabba

As soon as you reach the end of the narrow street, you can see a small church to your left. A church dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin stood here before 1500, but the current building dates from the 17th century. At some point, the dedication of the church changed slightly – probably aided by the fact that there was a much larger church dedicated to the Assumption a stone’s throw away. This is the last church on this pilgrimage until we reach Laferla Cross a few kilometres hence. From here we exit l-Imqabba and take several country roads towards Ta’ Kandja and the outskirts of Siġġiewi.

Although there are no major sites here, you can still admire several wayside niches, and vernacular architecture. You can also notice modern concrete intrusions as we keep encroaching on our precious countryside. It is a straight line through Ta’ Kandja until you reach the first major intersection just outside Siġġiewi.

Keep walking along the outskirts of Siġġiewi until you reach a second intersection. From here you need to go straight on into Triq Bur il-Kbir (and do not turn left towards Tal-Providenza). A few metres ahead take the second left into Triq il-Fawwara. At one point you will reach a Y-junction: take the road on the right (Triq Santu Kristu tal-Għolja). From here we start our ascent towards Laferla Cross. This last part is the popular route taken by many on Maundy Thursday as a short penitential pilgrimage. A set of three stone statues representing the Passion mysteries accompany us on the way up.

10. Church of the Annunciation, l/o is-Siġġiewi

A church has stood here from at least the mid-15th century, although the present structure dates from 1681. The church is currently in a poor state of preservation, with a series of seismic shocks further weakening the structure in recent years. As of 2019, a technical report has been submitted in the hope that this monument is restored. For now we can only hope that the structure does not collapse completely.

Laferla Cross

We have reached the end of our journey – underneath the imposing Laferla Cross which was built in 1903 on the suggestion of Fr Paul Laferla. From here one has a clear view of most of the island. Take time to admire the view – and reflect on the world around you. No doubt you will be able to spot the multitude of cranes and tower blocks that are slowly choking us. The crumbling church behind you should also remind you of the many crumbling structures around us – both literally and figuratively. Then take time to look up at the cross – for centuries a symbol of suffering but also of hope to many.

May it help you to face your own sufferings – and help others with theirs.

Route 9: The Pauline Route

Distance: 15km
Duration: 3.5 hours
Difficulty: Difficult

This route traces some of the main locations associated with the Pauline cult in Malta. The story of St Paul’s shipwreck in Malta is documented in the Acts of the Apostles (Acts: Chapters 27-28), and while most historians consider the event to be historically true, a lot of legends arose around St Paul’s visit. Although it is very likely that St Paul represents Malta’s first contact with Christianity, the claim for an immediate conversion of even a small population of the island cannot as yet be substantiated. It has however formed the basis of much of Malta’s Christian heritage, and St Paul remains a key figure in Maltese culture.

The route has fewer stops than usual, and most of it is (thankfully) through countryside, making it an ideal walk. There are a few uphills and downhills, so not recommended for the total beginner. Also stock up on water!

1. Għajn Rażul, St Paul’s Bay
The pilgrimage starts in St Paul’s Bay – the traditional location for St Paul’s shipwreck in Malta in 60 A.D. The first point on the pilgrimage route is Għajn Rażul (lit. The Apostle’s Fountain) which according to tradition was the place where St Paul struck on a rock and water gushed out to quench the thirst of the survivors. Before buildings started choking up the bay, one would have been able to see St Paul’s Islands across the bay from here. These were the islands where St Paul’s ship supposedly got shipwrecked, although there has been no conclusive evidence to support this. You can read more info on this interesting little monument here.

The route then goes through St Paul’s Bay – once a charming seaside village, and now mostly ruined by ugly apartments. You could take a seaside detour by turning left at Sqaq tax-Xama’ but that is entirely optional and it might be wiser to save your energy for later.

2. Church of St Paul Shipwreck, St Paul’s Bay

The origins of this church date back to the late 13th century, although the present structure dates from the early 17th century. This was a period when the Pauline cult received a boost as part of the Order of St John’s crusading spirit. The church is located in what was considered to be the area where the survivors set up camp, and St Paul was miraculously unharmed by a viper that had gotten caught in the firewood and bit him. The massive portico attests to the importance of this church as a pilgrimage site.

The route now takes us out of St Paul’s Bay, through some of the most congested (and possibly ugliest) parts of the town. Take care when you reach the junction – even though there are pedestrian crossings, over-speeding cars are a problem here. Then take the road towards Burmarrad.

3. Church of Saint Paul Milqi, Burmarrad

The stretch of road going into Burmarrad is prone to heavy traffic so caution is needed. Once you reach the outskirts of this little hamlet, turn right on Triq Ġebel Għazzara. You will soon reach Triq San Pawl Milqi, and there is a little uphill which takes you to our next stop. This church is also part of a very important Roman archaeological site. The excavations here have yielded a Roman villa with adjacent agricultural complex. The site is traditionally considered to be the location of Publius’ villa, the local ‘chief’ mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles, whose father St Paul healed. Due to the archaeological importance of this site, the area is closed to the public and access is by special permit only.

From now onwards the route goes through some of Malta’s most beautiful countryside – although sadly not as untouched as it should be. At one point the road disappears into a small pathway, and some offroad hiking is necessary. Make sure you turn right into Triq tal-Milord towards the small hamlet of Bidnija. The Church of the Holy Family (marked on the map with an X) is not part of the Pauline itinerary, but it is a useful marker, apart from being a charming little church.

As you walk out of Bidnija, make sure you take a right turn at the Y junction towards the Shooting Range / Horse Riding (NOT towards Mġarr / Golden Bay). Keep to the main road and eventually you will need to turn left towards Żebbiegħ. You will notice Żebbiegħ from its oddly-shaped (and I’d venture to say ‘ugly’) modern church. Walk as if you are heading out of the village, and then turn right towards Mġarr. You will eventually reach a little roundabout, where you need to turn left on Binġemma Road.

After a long stretch of road, you will reach the charming church of Our Lady of Itria (marked X on the map). Once again this is not part of the Pauline route, but a great landscape-photo spot. A few metres further you will cross the Victoria Lines, a defensive wall built by the British in the late 19th century. With the exception of a few forts and batteries punctuating this wall, the whole project was objectively a colossal waste of money and totally inappropriate for modern warfare.

From here onwards make sure you stick to the main road. You should have a few bus stops, as well as two clusters of houses on the left as you walk towards Rabat. Upon reaching a large arched gateway to a private residence (on your right) keep walking straight on (do NOT turn left as that would take you towards Chadwick Lakes and away from our final destination). You will eventually reach the little hamlet of Għajn Qajjet (a few houses on the main road), before the road turns left at the outskirts of Rabat.

4. Church of St Publius (St Paul’s Grotto)

We find ourselves once more in an urban area, although the first stretch of road has some magnificent valley views to the left. Do watch out for traffic – the pavement here is mostly inexistent. Upon reaching a little opening, turn right into Triq Santa Rita. This will take us directly to our next stop – St Paul’s Grotto. Although the building in front of us looks like one church, this is in fact part of a massive ecclesiastical complex that includes the parish church of St Paul (the central buidling), burial grounds with catacombs and underground churches (to the left), and the small church of St Publius to the right which serves as the entrance to the grotto. It is here that St Paul is meant to have resided during his three months in Malta. One must bear in mind that this whole area was once just outside the walls of the city of Melite (the Roman name for Mdina). The grotto itself is well worth a visit – it does feel special regardless of what you believe.

There are many ways of reaching Mdina from here. I have chosen the quietest one which takes us across the churchyard, and into some of Rabat’s most charming streets. We eventually reach the Church of St Mark (Augustinian Priory), with its elegant boulevard in front of it leading directly towards Mdina gate.

5. Cathedral of the Conversion of St Paul, Mdina

The last few metres take us inside Malta’s old capital – its current size the result of a scaling down of the Roman civitas under Arab rule. The capital was also subject to a major rebuilding programme in the Baroque period the results of which we can admire as we walk into the walled city. The magnificent gate, the Vilhena Palace on the right as soon as we enter the gate, the exquisite church of St Agatha, and last but not least the magnificent cathedral designed by Lorenzo Gafa.

We started this pilgrimage at the place where St Paul was supposed to have been shipwrecked here in Malta (other locations around Malta have been suggested). This episode marked the last part of his extensive travels – he would eventually reach Rome where he would be tried and executed for his faith. It is fitting that we should end this pilgrimage in a church which celebrates the very beginning of that journey: his conversion on his way to Damascus. St Paul was a pilgrim like us; one of the most prolific travellers of his age. He is an extremely complex figure – both a product of his times (his views on women and sexuality stem from his puritanical Jewish upbringing) as well as an astonishing visionary (he opened up Christianity to the Gentiles).

On a very personal note: I am not a big fan of St Paul (for personal reasons too complex to get into detail here), but I can still admire his burning intellect and pilgrim spirit. We often look at saints as being perfect beings – but they were not. They were very imperfect human beings who dedicated their lives to becoming better men and women – which is what I believe we should all be doing.

Route 8: St John’s Route

Distance: 13km
Duration: 3 hours
Difficulty: Easy

This relatively easy route takes you off the tourist track and through some delightful countryside and villages in the southern part of Malta. The final destination is the church of St John the Evangelist in what was once the tiny medieval hamlet of Ħal Millieri.

1. Parish Church of Christ the King, Paola

We start our pilgrimage in front of the Church of Christ the King in Paola. Although construction on this church started in the 1920s, this massive edifice took years to complete, and it has been only in recent years that the interior has received some much needed attention. Some might find the present decorative scheme a tad too grandiose or even anachronistic, but there is no denying that this is an impressive space.

The first part of our pilgrimage takes us through the busy centre of Paola. This particular town traces its modern origins to the 17th century when Grand Master Antoine de Paule attempted to create a settlement here in 1626. However, it was not until the late 19th century, with the rapidly expanding dockyards nearby, that Paola became a true town. A lot of the architecture in the centre of town dates from this period, and you can admire many beautiful domestic buildings as you make your way towards Tarxien.

2. Parish Church of the Annunciation, Ħal Tarxien

We enter Ħal Tarxien from the ‘wrong’ end, as we walk up the elegant Paola Road and reach the Parish Church from behind. This church was completed in 1627, with the distinctive bell-towers completed by 1636. These were modelled on those of St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta, and remain a rare example of conical spires in Malta. Take note of the ‘double’ facade that was never completed, and can still be seen just underneath the belfries – a result of extensive remodelling in the 18th century.

3. Church of Saint Bartholemew, Ħal Tarxien

As we exit the main square, we proceed south towards Żejtun, along the old processional route of the St Gregory Pilgrimage. Owing to the importance of this route it is no surprise that several important buildings were built along the way. You can admire several palatial buildings on the right, including Palazzo Abela, as well as the exquisite Church of St Bartholomew. Built in 1764, this is a splendid example of Late Baroque Maltese architecture. At the end of this stretch of road is the beautiful Villa Barbaro, whose origins go back to the early 16th century. Turn right at this point, and proceed towards Żejtun, taking great care to cross the busy Triq San Anard. Then, instead of going towards Żejtun, turn right again towards tal-Barrani, once again taking great care when crossing Triq tal-Barrani.

4. Church of Christ the Redeemer, Ħal Għaxaq

We now go uphill towards the lonely little church of Christ the Redeemer, popularly known as Santu Kristu. This church is particularly dear to the present author, and you can read more about it here. From here we enter the charming village of Ħal Għaxaq. As soon as you reach the outskirts of the village, take a left and then right, and right again. This might seem like an unnecessary detour, but you will be rewarded with the magnificent sight of the parish church of the Assumption.

5. Parish Church of the Assumption of the Virgin, Ħal Għaxaq

This imposing church is another Late Baroque masterpiece by the Maltese architect Sebastiano Saliba. I personally find this church one of the best examples of Maltese Baroque, with a sense of proportion that is often lacking in other examples. The interior is also full of splendid works of art by the likes of Francesco Zahra, Gian Nikol Buhagiar, Mariano Gerada, Gianni Vella, and Emvin Cremona – if you happen to find it open it is worth a visit. Leaving the main square, take the small alley to the left of the church – noting the late Medieval ‘Arabic / Norman’ archway of which several examples can still be found around Ħal Għaxaq. This winding street leads us in another small square dominated by a small church.

6. Church of Saint Philip Neri, Ħal Għaxaq

It seems that the people of Ħal Għaxaq were quite please with Saliba’s work, for in 1763 – 30 years after works on the present parish church started, he was commissioned with the building of this miniature late Baroque gem. It is worth noting the stylistic similarities with the Church of Saint Bartholomew in Ħal Tarxien. But it is also worth noting the portico on the façade – an architectural element usually added to give shelter to pilgrims. So far, I have not come across any references to this church being a pilgrimage church, and the inclusion of the portico might have been added more for prestige than to meet a real need. From here we will proceed towards Dawret Ħal Għaxaq (once again, cross carefully – there are pedestrian lights), and make our way towards the open countryside.

7. Church of Our Lady of Loreto, Il-Gudja

The road towards Iż-Żurrieq is a straightforward and pleasant countryside walk with few points of interest. However, it is worth taking the slight detour towards the Church of Our Lady of Loreto on the outskirts of Gudja. The origins of this church go back to 1548 when the Knight Fra Imberto de Morines built a small church as thanksgiving for victory in battle. Apart from being credited with introducing the devotion towards Our Lady of Loreto, this also makes the old church one of the first buildings to be erected by the Knights outside of the Birgu / Grand Harbour area. That church is now the sacristy of the current building, which was built in the late 17th century. This church still enjoys widespread devotion, not least by the people of Gudja who celebrate the titular feast with great devotion in mid-December. The route then proceeds around the end of one of the airport runways, and then turns towards more countryside until it reaches Misraħ Ħlantun. This little opening is weird in many ways. Firstly because it was the focus of a rural development programme in the early 2000s that seems slightly pointless (there are paved walkways and benches with no seemingly useful purpose – oh and the obligatory little commemorative sign). It also feels like there should be a hamlet of sorts in the area that somehow mysteriously disappeared. Once you pass the area, we reach the outskirts of the village of Iż-Żurrieq.

8. Church of Saint Agatha, Iż-Żurrieq

Turning right towards Iż-Żurrieq we reach the south-eastern outskirts of the village and pass by the small church of St Agatha. The present edifice is mostly a 17th century creation, but the origins of this church can be traced back as far as 1428. Once again the presence of a portico points towards a possible pilgrimage church, although given that originally this church was in the remote countryside far from the village centre, it could simply have been designed as shelter from the elements.

9. Church of Saint Andrew, Iż-Żurrieq

A few metres away from the church of Saint Agatha lies another small country church dedicated to Saint Andrew. The church forms part of a small heritage park that includes badly mutilated catacombs and the famous Xarolla windmill. Little information about this church is known, but judging from the rudimentary architecture, it is possibly a late Medieval building. The dedication to St Andrew, patron saint of fishermen, is also a reminder of our proximity to the sea.

10. Church of Saint Bartholemew, Iż-Żurrieq

After proceeding down further for a few metres we turn left into the village proper where we are met with another late Baroque gem. The present church was built in 1775, and replaced a smaller 15th century (or earlier) church. The façade is more austere than other late Baroque churches we have encountered along the route, but the interior (if you are lucky enough to find the church open) is an explosion of rococo decoration. It is worth noting that this is the second church dedicated to this saint that we have encountered on this route. Saint Bartholomew is patron saint of butchers, tanners, and leather workers – all important trades in the pre-modern age.

11. Parish Church of Saint Catherine, Iż-Żurrieq

We now find ourselves in the old village core, and after a few twists and turns we are faced with the imposing temple dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria. Approaching from the side streets allows us to enjoy the full dramatic impact of having the church emerge suddenly from the surrounding buildings (The wide avenue opened in the late 20th century in front of the church has changed that spatial dynamic). The core building dates from the early 17th century, but the side naves are a 20th century addition. The church houses several works by Mattia Preti.

The avenue in front of the church eventually leads to Blue Grotto Avenue along the more modern parts of the village. After some very dull architecture, we take a left and find ourselves in the countryside once more – and walking towards the villages of Il-Qrendi and l-Imqabba. Halfway between the outskirts of Iż-Żurrieq and Il-Qrendi we take a right turn and we reach our final destination: the long lost hamlet of Ħal Millieri.

12. Church of the Annunciation, Ħal Millieri

Ħal Millieri was one of many small hamlets that did not survive into the modern age. Many late Medieval hamlets had disappeared by the 17th century. Ħal Millieri survived only a little longer than that with the last recorded birth registered in 1711. Only two small churches survive from this hamlet, which once had four documented churches – a testament to former glory. The first, and by far the most important one, is that dedicated to the Annunciation.

This church is reached through a small gateway and a garden. It is one of the few remaining places in Malta where one can get an idea of late Medieval sacred space – with an enclosed parvis (generally used also for burials) leading up to the church proper. Like many churches at the time, there were two stuck together, and the remains of an older church dedicated to the Visitation are still visible next to it. The present church of the Annunciation dates from the late 15th century, but archaeological excavations have unearthed the foundations of an earlier 13th century edifice.

However, the architecture is not the most important element of this church. Rather it is the unique and beautiful late Medieval fresco cycle that adorns the interior of the church that make this one of the most amazing monuments in Malta. The cycle is important not only because it is almost complete, but also because it is in an excellent state of preservation. Unfortunately the church is only opened once a month, on the first Sunday of each month.

13. Church of St John the Evangelist, Ħal Millieri

Our final destination, a few metres away from the previous church, might feel like an anticlimax. The church, dating from 1640, has plenty of charm but none of the mystique of the previous church. Yet originally this was the main church of Ħal Millieri, and the whole hamlet was built around it. Originally there was another small church, dedicated to Saint Michael, that abutted against this one, however no traces of this church survive.

We have now reached the end of this pilgrimage – and allow me a little reflection on John the Evangelist. John is an enigmatic figure: he is the author of the Gospel of John and the Book of Revelation. If you are familiar with either, as well as with other New Testament writings, you will immediately notice a marked difference between him and his contemporaries. He was also the beloved disciple, a clear favourite with Jesus Christ, and the only Apostle present at the Crucifixion. He was also the only Apostle to die from old age, and not martyrdom. And yet, the other three gospels do not paint a pretty picture of him, or of his brother James the Great, depicting them as quick to anger and referred to as ‘Boanerges’ or ‘sons of thunder’. Ironically, his brother was the first Apostle to suffer a martyr’s death…

His brother is also the final destination of the Camino de Santiago, that network of pilgrimage routes that has moved Europe for centuries and was almost forgotten in our age of comfort and technology. Should we abandon modernism and technology and go back to those ‘primitive’ ways? Perhaps not – but I still have serious reservations on whether technology has made our lives better or simply faster…

Route 7: All Souls’ Route

Distance: 12km
Duration: 3.5-4 hours*
Difficulty: Intermediate

*The route itself is about 3 hours, but do allow time to visit at least the magnificent Addolorata Cemetery.

This is an unusual pilgrimage route in that it is built not around churches but around cemeteries and death-related sites. The stops are not even all Christian: Death is universal. We also live in a world where Death is either something terrible that happens in far away countries or else it is a sanitised affair in the comfort of a hospital or care home. This route also goes through some of the most polluted and ugliest parts of Malta: Death comes in many forms.

1. Church of the Holy Cross, Floriana

We start our tour in front of the Capuchin Friary in Floriana. Originally built in 1588 it was almost totally destroyed during the Second World War and rebuilt in the 1950s. This church is notable for being the only church in Malta to hold two mummified friars in the crypt. Although this is a rare occurrence nowadays, this was fairly common practice in many religious orders – a reminder of the brevity and transience of life. From here we walk out towards Porte des Bombes and cross the road towards Pietà, where we reach the first cemetery on our route.

2. Ta’ Braxia Cemetery, Pietà

This is probably the most underrated cemeteries in Malta, with most people who pass it by not even realising it is there. The cemetery was designed by Emanuele Luigi Galizia and built between 1855-57 as an interfaith cemetery for British servicemen. The cemetery is dominated by the Lady Rachel Hamilton-Gordon memorial chapel, designed by John Loughborough Pearson in 1893 in a Neo Romanesque-Gothic Revivalist style.

3. Pietà Military Cemetery, Pietà

The road then continues downhill towards Sa Maison, where we take a left turn towards the small church of Our Lady of Sorrows (in Italian della Pietà which gave the town its name). Going uphill again we soon pass by the Pietà Military Cemetery on our left – burial place for a over a thousand WWI soldiers, besides other later military burials. We keep walking up towards the Nationalist Party headquarters, and take a left, and another left and onwards till we reach Sqaq il-Kubrit on our right. This little and unknown shortcut takes us right next to our next stopping point.

4. Church of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medallion, Blata l-Bajda

This iconic building is the resting place of Saint Gorg Preca – to date Malta’s only ever canonised saint (2007). Following his canonisation the church’s main altar was redesigned and the saint’s corpse laid out in a special glass sarcophagus. The route then proceeds towards Marsa (use the pedestrian lights to cross), all the way down Spencer Hill.

5. Site of Turkish Cemetery, Marsa

As we enter Marsa proper, we pass through an area where a Turkish cemetery was discovered in 2012 during roadworks. There are no visible signs today (at least as far as I have been able to find out), but it does shed light on how we treat human burials in different situations. From here onwards it is a straight line across Marsa, past the Holy Trinity Church, and towards Albert Town.

From here onwards the current route might not be totally possible due to ongoing roadworks which are anything but walking-friendly. This might mean that the 6th stop (The Turkish & Jewish Cemeteries) might have to be missed, and instead proceed directly towards Paola and the Addolorata Cemetery.

6. Turkish & Jewish Cemeteries, Marsa

The iconic Turkish cemetery was built between 1873-74, once again to plans by Galizia, to replace earlier Muslim cemeteries. Adjacent to it is a smaller and simpler Jewish cemetery, designed by Webster Paulson in 1879. Both cemeteries are at the mercy of flooding (to which the area is very prone), pollution (one of the most heavily congested areas in Malta), and encroaching buildings (mostly ugly industrial edifices). From here we can proceed along the route and towards Addolorata Cemetery.

7. Addolorata Cemetery, Paola

This cemetery is a jewel in Malta’s architectural Victorian heritage – and without doubt Galizia’s crowning glory. The cemetery was built between 1862 and 1868, but it was not until 1870 that the first burial took place. Until then most burials happened inside churches, and extramural burials were met with a lot of resistance. Apart from the crowning church of Our Lady of Sorrows, the cemetery boasts a beautiful array of funerary chapels and monuments. It is well worth a visit, and I recommend spending at least a good half hour to admire its many treasures. Also take note of the hideous flyovers, industrial buildings, and high rise blocks surrounding it.

8. Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, Paola

We now cross into Paola all the way towards Paola square, but instead turning right towards the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum. There are few spaces in the world I find as sacred as this space. This prehistoric underground burial complex was first started around 4000 B.C. and was in use for over two millenia before it was abandoned. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and well worth a visit (tickets need to be booked well in advance).

9. Tal-Erwieħ Cemetery, Ħal Tarxien

We now proceed towards Ħal Tarxien, but instead of going into the old village core we take a left towards Tarxien Temples. Next to this equally fascinating prehistoric complex lies the cemetery known as ‘Tal-Erwieħ‘. At the far end lies the Church of the Risen Christ, one of the earliest examples of Modernist ecclesiastical architecture in Malta – and one of the better examples of the style. The route now proceeds towards Fgura as we make our way towards Bormla. Once again we are faced with traffic and dull architecture – perhaps a symptom of a different kind of death…

10. Dockyard Creek, Bormla

We enter Bormla from Għajn Dwieli side. Warning: this is a tricky part, especially once the road takes a sharp bend into the fortifications. Proceed with care. Eventually we reach the Bormla waterfront – dominated by the American University of Malta campus – looking less like a university and more like a work-in-progress. You might also think it curious to have the Dockyard creek listed along this pilgrimage route – but we tend to forget the many who have died in these waters, especially during the Second World War. We can continue along the waterfront all the way to Birgu until we reach the Freedom Monument in front of St Laurence Collegiate Parish Church.

11. St Laurence Collegiate Parish Church, Birgu

Birgu is the site of some of Malta’s most important historical events – not least the Great Siege of 1565. To the left of the Church of St Laurence (itself a magnificent Baroque Church that is well worth a visit) is a parvis which was built over a burial ground that probably housed the remains of most of the victims of the 1565 Ottoman siege. We can cross this parvis all the way into the main square, and cut diagonally towards the Benedictine monastery and the Church of St Anne. From here we can proceed to the other side of Birgu and reach the coast once more by means of a flight of steps built into the walls.

12. Jewish Cemetery, Kalkara

We now enter the final part of our pilgrimage. The walk around Kalkara creek is a delight. Once we reach the parish church we go into the old village core. Right at the bottom of the hill there is what remains of a Jewish cemetery – which dates back to 1784. Incidentally, this is one of three Jewish cemeteries in Malta, of which the other two we have also visited along this pilgrimage (the Jewish Cemetery in Marsa, and Ta’ Braxia which housed Jewish burials). The narrow uphill road takes us to the other side of Kalkara before we make our descent towards Rinella bay – a lovely little bay tucked away in the otherwise busy Grand Harbour.

13. Cemetery of Wied Għammieq, Kalkara

We reach the final part of our journey as we climb up towards Fort Rinella, passing by Fort Ricasoli along the way. There, in a forgotten corner of the world, lies the saddest place on earth: the cemetery of Wied Għammieq. The cemetery was built as a common mass grave for the victims of the cholera outbreak of 1837 – which started at the Ospizio in Floriana a few metres away from were we started our pilgrimage. The Ospizio was literally a home for the inconvenient and the dispossessed, housing the elderly, the infirm, the poor, prostitutes, illegitimate children, the ‘possessed’, and all the people society did not want to see. Take your time to contemplate Death – and the forgotten. I would like to leave you with this short dream my grandmother used to recount to me as a child, and which has remained with me ever since:

“I dreamt I was walking alone on a cold winter’s night when I passed by a cemetery. I could see the dim light of candles. I heard voices calling my name, so I went to the gate and there they were – the souls of the departed. ‘Pray for us! Pray for us! And light a candle in our memory! Light a candle for the souls of Wied Għammieq!”

For years I thought this was all part of grandmother’s fertile imagination. It was only years later that I found out that the cemetery existed, and who was buried there. I try and visit them at least once a year…and light a candle…

Route 6: The Franciscan Route

Distance: 12.8km
Duration: 3 hours
Difficulty: Intermediate

This route follows a Franciscan path from the late medieval convent of St Francis belonging to the Franciscan Conventuals in Rabat (next to the Santo Spirito archives) all the way to to the Conventual Church of St Francis in Valletta. Along the route we pass several Marian churches – and St Francis and the Franciscans were keen promoters of Marian devotion. It also represents a move from the more rural (and more or less intact) environs of Rabat to the more congested and often polluted Inner Harbour areas. I hope that this provides a good opportunity to reflect on our ‘modernity’ – dependent on technology and detached from the natural environment…may it lead you to connect once more with the world in the way St Francis did by espousing simplicity and poverty.

1. Church of St Francis of Assisi, Rabat

Our pilgrimage starts from very ancient ground. The Franciscans set up a convent here in the late 14th century next to the older Santo Spirito hospital (the building to the left). Over the years the church and convent have gone through various transformations, and the current building owes much of its appearance to 17th century Baroque sensibilities. The church is also home to ‘Our Lady of Good Health’ which enjoys a strong following. Proceed towards Saqqajja hill, and then down the long road underneath Mdina. Take time to notice two abandoned cemeteries on the left. Once you reach the roundabout cross towards another (better-kept) Commonwealth cemetery and into Ta’ Qali. Warning: There are no pedestrian crossings here or anywhere nearby…cross the road with extra care! Enjoy the open spaces of Ta’ Qali (albeit not exactly ‘natural’ as it’s a man-made park). Once you reach Ħ’Attard the greenery disappears pretty quickly.

2. Parish Church of the Assumption, Ħ’Attard

We enter the village of Attard from Misraħ Kola – mostly terraced houses built in the 80s which are now also falling prey to the apartment blocks mania. Once we reach the Government Primary School we enter into the old village core. The elegant street leading up to the church is full of beautiful houses. The church itself, built in 1613, is one of the masterpieces of Maltese architect Tumas Dingli. We take a left and after a few turns we find ourselves following the old railway line.

3. Parish Church of the Assumption, Birkirkara

Just before the end of Old Railway Street we take a right turn at Triq Vittorio Cassar into a square. The ugliness of most of the apartment buildings is mitigated by the majestic Parish Church of the Assumption – another masterpiece by Tumas Dingli built in 1617. This building served as the main church of Birkirkara until the residents decided to build a new church on the other side of the valley. The old church was left to rot, and it was only in the 1950s that a slow (and as yet incomplete) restoration process started. You can now either go left towards Birkirkara valley, or else take a little detour (and perhaps some rest) at the Old Railway Garden adjacent to the church.

4. Church of St Francis of Assisi, Ta’ Paris, Birkirkara

We now pass through the outskirts of the old village core, and up a winding road that leads us to the next Franciscan Church, that of St Francis, also run by the Conventual Friars. This church, built in a Neo-Romanesque style, owes its origins to a little chapel which the Friars used in 1941 for war refugees fleeing from the harbour area. In 1953 they decided to build a church and convent here to serve the ever growing population of the area. Sadly, all around this area you can notice a huge increase in dull apartment blocks – soulless and characterless.

We leave Ta’ Paris to rejoin the Old Railway track once again, as it passes through Santa Venera. There is little to admire along this stretch of road – even the few interesting terraced houses are giving way to more apartment blocks. There are of course alternative routes which are ‘slightly’ more interesting, but perhaps that is exactly the problem nowadays – we try to avoid facing reality a little bit too much.

5. Church of St Francis of Assisi, Il-Ħamrun

We reach the end of Old Railway Track and have to cross a busy junction into Ħamrun – exercise caution when crossing! A few blocks down we reach the oddly neglected church of St Francis, built by the Franciscan Minors in 1952. It is a curious and in many ways fascinating building – a mixture of latent Art Deco traits and (I use the word carefully here) – Post-Modernist elements (look at that Greek pediment sitting uncomfortably on top of the facade!).

6. Parish Church of the Immaculate Conception, Il-Ħamrun

The road then leads us to another post-war church – the Parish Church of the Immaculate Conception which was built in the sixties. This is another odd piece of architecture – classicising elements squeezed in between two modern(ist) buildings. It also has a characteristic that sends my OCD on tilt – the actual church lies at about a 30′ angle from the facade, resulting in a skewed floor plan and a triangular vestibule.

The route now turns left and we descend towards Pietà – a relatively quiet stretch until we reach St Joseph school and turn right to the busy road leading towards Valletta. Although this should technically be a drab stretch of road, but once you reach the tree lined path on the left side of the road, it is actually quite pleasant.

7. Church of the Immaculate Conception, (aka Ta’ Sarria), Il-Furjana

We now reach the last stretch as we enter the suburb of Floriana. We pass the majestic Portes des Bombes, then left turn towards the Mall. There are several striking buildings around us, but the Church of Sarria (present structure built in 1675) is a true little gem. It also houses a fantastic set of paintings by Mattia Preti.

8. Parish Church of Saint Publius, Floriana

A few metres down the road we reach the Granaries, dominated by the Parish Church of St Publius. The original church was built in 1733 but was subsequently enlarged in the 19th century. It has many treasures including a spectacular vault by Emvin Cremona.

You can proceed to Valletta either by walking along The Mall or else through it – and appreciate its many beautiful monuments. We will also pass by Antonio Sciortino’s masterpiece of Christ the King (in front of Phoenicia Hotel) and Vincenzo Apap’s spectacular Triton Fountain, before we reach City Gate.

9. Church of St Francis of Assisi, Valletta

We now reach our final destination – the Church of St Francis of Assisi Valletta. This church was built in 1681 and then enlarged in the 1920s. Despite the architectural incongruences (the dome sits uncomfortably on a series of arches that are not aligned to the original vault) – it is still a beautiful space housing works by Preti and Cali (the stupendous ‘Glory of St Francis’ his largest canvas) among others.

Route 5 – Saint Matthew’s Route

Distance: 9.3km
Duration: 2 hours
Difficulty: Easy

This route terminates at the Church of St Matthew the Evangelist in Qrendi, known as Tal-Maqluba. It is one of the most suggestive churches on the Maltese islands, perched on a cliff-edge above a sinkhole. Legend has it that a hamlet once stood above this sinkhole. Its inhabitants led a very dissolute lifestyle, except for one pious man (in some versions a nun) who implored them to mend their ways to no avail. Eventually God decided they had to be punished, and the earth opened up and swallowed the hamlet. In another version, the land was lifted by angels and thrown into the sea forming the island of Filfla, off the coast of Qrendi. There might be some truth to the legend as the remains of wells have been found still hanging to the sinkhole’s walls, indicating some form of old habitation that has since been lost to erosion.

1 – Cathedral of the Conversion of St. Paul, Mdina

This pilgrimage route starts in the old capital city of Mdina – traditionally an important start or end point for many pilgrimages. The impressive Baroque facade (a masterpiece by the Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafa) is a very suggestive backdrop for the start of a pilgrimage. Make your way to the main gate of Mdina – and take time to admire some splendid architecture!

2 – Church of St Agatha, Mdina

This tiny church has its origins in the 15th century although the present building is also the work of architect Lorenzo Gafa who drew up plans for the new church (and the cathedral) following the earthquake of 1693. From here we can exit by the main gate, another masterpiece of Baroque triumphalism. Proceed towards Saqqajja hill, and down the steps. WARNING: crossing this uphill is particularly dangerous – use the pedestrian crossing!

From here onwards much of this route is through gently rolling countryside – mostly unspoilt (I say ‘mostly’ because even here one can see encroaching ‘development’ and hideous ‘architecture’ that is plaguing Malta). It is also worth keeping a map handy as one can easily take a wrong turn.

3 – Church of Saint Blaise

This lonely little church is our only companion between Rabat and Qrendi. It is dedicated to Saint Blaise, bishop and martyr, who was invoked against throat ailments (legend has it he once saved a boy from choking on a fish bone). Curiously though, in Malta he was also patron saint of midwives, and he is invoked in the prayer ‘San Blas! San Blas! Wessa’ t-toqba u ċekken ir-ras!’ (Which means: Saint Blaise! Saint Blaise! Widen the passageway and make the head small!).

Once we pass by this little church the route is a fairly straightforward one until we have to turn left towards Siġġiewi. Soon after we get to a Y-junction – it is important to take the right road (Triq ta’ Bur il-Kbir). This takes us around the village of Siġġiewi. At the next junction, take the road exactly opposite (Triq ta’ Kilpa).

The road reaches another junction, and you need to take the road directly opposite (do not turn left into Triq il-Qrendi!). A few hundred metres further down we can take a short detour to the left on Triq Bur it-Tokk to the little hamlet of Ħax-Xluq.

4 – Church of the Assumption, Ħax-Xluq l/o Is-Siġġiewi

Although this is off the main route, it is well worth visiting. It is one of Malta’s hidden gems. The church itself is a rare example of Maltese medieval architecture (It is hardly ever opened, but if it is do go in!). The setting is also highly suggestive – just a few houses interspersed in the vicinity – giving us a glimpse of what Maltese hamlets looked like in the medieval period (the present houses belong to the modern era). A charming little feast is held in this hamlet on the Sunday after the 15th of August (the feast of the Assumption).

Once past Ħax-Xluq, we are faced with another long stretch of blissful peace and quiet (well, hopefully not too many cars!) until we reach the outskirts of Qrendi.

5 – Church of St Catherine, Il-Qrendi

This curious little church signals the beginnings of the charming village of Qrendi. It has a very particular architecture – a very squarish facade with a very rudimentary split-level arrangement. The dedication to St Catherine is a reminder that this village formed part of the older parish of Żurrieq until 1618.

From here take a couple of steps back and go into Qrendi via Triq Santa Katerina, past the early British-period ‘Commanders’ Garden’ built by Sir Alexander Ball between 1802 and 1805 not only to provide more greenery but also for agricultural and botanical research. If only our politicians followed these examples!

6 – Church of Our Saviour, Il-Qrendi

Once we enter the village proper we are soon greeted by another beautiful church dedicated to Our Saviour. This church is typical of the small country churches built in the 17th century around Malta. Once again, this church is rarely opened, but if it is do take a little peek inside to admire it’s decorated ceiling, all covered in painted floral motifs.

7 – Parish Church of the Assumption, Il-Qrendi

This beautiful church (yet another gem by Lorenzo Gafa) dominates the little village of Qrendi. It is one of the most underrated churches in Malta. The church has a curious plan. Looking at it from the front the two belfries at each end of the side chapels give the impression that the church is bigger than it actually is. Inside the church has all you would expect from a Maltese Baroque church, and despite being very ornate it still feels just right.

From here it is just a few more hundred metres until we reach our final destination.

8 – Church of St Matthew, Il-Maqluba, l/o Il-Qrendi

We end this route with one of my favourite rural churches. In reality there are two churches here. On the left of the bigger church lies the small medieval church of St Matthew. It is a tiny space, but beautifully evocative. The bigger church was built in the 17th century (the big window on the facade, and the two tiny belfries are later additions). It is a beautiful country church – austere by Maltese standards.

The feast of St Matthew falls on the 21st of September. A small feast is held on the Sunday after the 21st of September, complete with food stands, funfair games (you can even win live rabbits!) and fireworks.

Route 4: The Seven St Marys (2)

Distance: 12km
Duration: 3 hours*
Difficulty: Intermediate

*If you are walking this during the Santa Marija feast allow 5 hours so that you can enjoy the sights and sounds of Ħal Għaxaq, Il-Gudja, L-Imqabba, and Il-Qrendi which will be all lit up for the festa. The ideal dates would be on the eve (14th August) when you can admire the fireworks that light up all of Malta, or on the feast day (15th August) where you can admire the solemn processions.

1 – Church of the Assumption, Ħal Tarxien (Tar-Rokna)

We start our pilgrimage at one of the many small churches dedicated to the Assumption that are dotted around the island. This little gem (which was featured in Route 1 posted on this blog) is an ideal starting point if you want to slowly build up your pilgrimage experience. Although it is open during Santa Marija, and even has some very basic decorations on the facade and parvis, it is a very quiet start to the route.

From here you can proceed towards Żejtun by crossing over towards Bulebel Industrial Estate (Warning: Use the pedestrian lights to cross the busy Triq San Anard). The path then goes through fields to reach the outskirts of Żejtun, and one straight road towards the parish church of St Catherine in Żejtun, a splendid Baroque temple started in 1692 to plans by Lorenzo Gafá, dubbed (with good reason) the Cathedral of the South.

Just before you get to the church, take time to admire the many beautiful Baroque palazzos and the beautiful Church of the Holy Spirit that line up Triq Santa Katarina. This street was right on the old St Gregory’s pilgrimage route, and hence it was prime real estate. Once arrived in front of the parish church, take a right, and walk all the way to the next church on our pilgrimage. Take time to admire the many magnificent buildings including the imposing Casa Daniel and the Church of St Angelo the Martyr.

2 – Church of the Assumption, Iż-Żejtun

Tucked away in the corner of Misraħ Santa Marija lies another small church dedicated to the Assumption, known locally as Tal-Ħlass (ħlas in this case refers to birthing, and it seems like babies were buried in its ground). Sadly, this church is rarely open.

The route now goes south towards Bir id-Deheb, passing by the new Church of Our Lady of Sorrows known as Tal-Ħniena. This church is an odd creation, with a disproportionate Neo-Baroque facade, a squarish plan at the back, and the old church placed sideways in between!

Warning: use pedestrian lights to cross into Ħal Għaxaq. It is a straight road towards our fist major church.

3 – Parish Church of the Assumtion, Ħal Għaxaq

This is one of the most under-rated and unjustly neglected gems. Built in 1723 to plans by Sebastiano Saliba, it is magnificent temple. The interior is no less impressive boasting a wealth of paintings by the likes of Francesco Zahra, GianNikol Buhagiar, Gianni Vella, and Emvin Cremona, as well as the beautiful statue of the Assumption by Mariano Gerada.

Take the side street to the left of the church, and go through the old village core until you reach the Għaxaq by-pass. From here you will go through some quiet modern urban suburbs until you reach the outskirts of Gudja. Eventually you will reach Triq San Ċiru which takes you right in front of the next church.

Festa: If you are there during festa time take your time to appreciated the effect of walking up Triq Santa Marija with all its festa decorations, reaching a colourful climax in the main square. You might also want to take a short detour by going straight on towards Pjazza Santu Rokku, and then turning left to reach the Għaxaq by-pass and continue along the main route.

4. Parish Church of the Assumption, Il-Gudja

Looks can be deceiving. The post-war facade might give the impression that this is a huge imposing church, but behind it lies a 17th century gem designed by Tumas Dingli. It also has the distinction of being the only Maltese church with three bell towers, after a third tower was erected in 1858 to a design by William Baker. The church is also rich in artistic treasures including works by Pietro Gagliardi and Domenico Bruschi.

The route then proceeds along the right-hand side of the church, and into the newer areas of Gudja. A gentle down hill then takes you right to the outskirts to the old parish church of Bir Miftuħ.

Festa: Gudja has a very particular set-up, with the village celebrating two secondary feasts in October. For years the titular feast was sidelined, although in recent years there has been a greater effort at celebrating it with the appropriate pomp. Although not the most extravagant of festas, there is still much to enjoy.

5 – Church of the Assumption, Bir Miftuħ

It is hard to imagine that this secluded church was once the centre of one of the largest parishes in medieval Malta. The present church is a much reduced building (you can still see the original footprint at the back of the church), but remains one of the most important late medieval churches in Malta, with elegant pointed arches and traces of frescoes inside. It is unlikely that you will find it open as it is opened only on the first Sunday of every month. However, it certainly merits a visit in its own right.

The stress of modern life will soon greet you as you exit unto the main road. The next stretch is both ugly and dangerous, so take extra caution. The landscape does not improve much until you reach Triq Valletta on the outskirts of Mqabba. As you walk all the way past the airport and through the tunnel (underneath the airport’s runway), do reflect on how our ‘modern’ lifestyle has pushed the act of walking to the side, often obliging us to use mechanised transport.

6 – Parish Church of the Assumption, L-Imqabba

The route deliberately avoids the Mqabba-Qrendi bypass which is bland and at points dangerous. Instead we go through the old village core where one can still admire some beautiful vernacular architecture. The small parish church dominates the village core. Although not as artistically rich as the other big churches on this route (it was badly hit during WWII), several recent restoration projects have helped in its rehabilitation.

Festa: Mqabba (together with Qrendi) is one of the most famous centres for fireworks, and in all fairness both merit a stop in their own right. You might want to get to Qrendi and then return to Mqabba, or stop here (obviously it wouldn’t be a ‘7’ St Marys pilgrimage in that case). From a purely subjective point of view I always find Qrendi’s fireworks to be the more ostentatious, whereas Mqabba is wonderfully ingenious.

The by-pass is unavoidable, but if we exit Mqabba past the beautiful church of St Catherine, we only need worry about the by-pass for a few metres. A sharp right takes us to another Church of St Catherine (known as Tat-Torba) – a sign of how widespread the devotion towards this saint is. We can now enter Qrendi from the old village core as well. It is worth comparing the two villages – Mqabba has a slightly more genteel feel to it, whereas Qrendi has a homelier feel.

7 – Parish Church of the Assumption, Il-Qrendi

We finish our pilgrimage with another hidden gem – a miniature masterpiece by Lorenzo Gafá started in 1685. One of the most impressive features is the way Gafá creates the impression of grandeur, when in reality this is a rather small edifice. Despite its size it contains several impressive works of art, including a splendid altarpiece of St Stephen by Stefano Erardi.

Festa: There is much to admire here but fireworks remain at the top of the list. Just like Mqabba before, the Qrendin are renowned for the aerial fireworks which are given off from the other side of the valley, making for an impressive backdrop.

Santu Kristu – the vow

Jekk trid taqra dan l-artiklu bil-Malti agħfas hawn.

I made a vow on the chapel of Santu Kristu*, and those of you who know anything about it, know that you cannot rescind on such vows very easily. The vow was a simple one – as soon as I finish my studies I will do the Camino of Santiago de Compostela. It was a wish that had been there for years. I was about to do it ten years ago, but it was not yet time. But now the time is ripe, and I made that vow about six years ago.

Let me be clear. I have not made a vow as some form of exchange. You know, “help me and I’ll do a little walk for you”. Nothing of the sort, for as the saying goes ‘God will help you only if you help yourself’. Nowadays everything has become so easy (press a button, visit a website, phone a number…) that we have even reduced God to some wondrous grace-giving machine. And if we don’t have our way, we start cursing him that he helped others and not us…as if God is some form of vending machine, and if we kick him he’ll somehow work better.

No, a vow is not some form of divine contract. A vow is a long confession – ‘help me because I cannot do this alone’. And now that I have finished my studies, that leaden question weighs on my shoulders: ‘Where to now? How am I going to turn all I have learnt and worked for into something positive for others? Or am I to dig an intellectual pit and let myself be buried under all I have learnt? And so, I vowed to do the Camino. I am here because others have helped me – now it’s my turn to help others.

But first, an important prologue.

Before I start walking I will visit Naples – more precisely to visit the tomb of St Cajetan. Once more, an old dream, but as always, it was not yet time. I do not just want to see his tomb (to be honest, that is more a sign of respect than anything else), but the city where he worked and died.

Brackets: Saint Cajetan was born to a noble family from Vicenza, and studied to become a lawyer. He had the whole world at his feet – and then came the moment of crisis and he renounced everything and chose poverty and to work for the destitute and the sick.

That is what walking does to you, it makes you look, and think. The more I walk, the more I realise certain things. Some have called me ‘negative’ – because I denounce all that is ugly both on the outside and the inside. Could be. But I’d invite you to start walking, and maybe you will see what I see.

Out there, beyond the walls of our tiny abodes, and the stuffiness of those metal boxes on wheels that take us from one abode to the next, in the real world that uses no algorithms and does not let you choose what to see, out there are lots of things that should worry us.

For if we are chopping trees to widen roads, it’s because there is no one to walk under the shade of boughs. If we are building on every scrap of land, it is because we have forgotten how to till the fields. If the air is heavy with dust and smoke, it is because we have locked ourselves inside our homes full of chemical products and air purifies.

And thus, I made a vow on Santu Kristu – to find the strength to reach out beyond the comfort of my own home, and see the world for what it is. And for those who know anything about it, you cannot rescind on such vows very easily.

*Santu Kristu

The small church of Santu Kristu lies at the top of a hill in Ħal Għaxaq. The origins of the story go something like this: In 1766 a certain Mikelanġ Zammit was moved by a sermon, and vehemently vowed to build a niche dedicated to Christ the Redeemer on the top of the mentioned hill. But with time his enthusiasm waned, and he forgot all about it, until one day he was going up the hill with his carriage, and as soon as he reached the top he lost control of the horse and was thrown off. When he got up and realised he was unhurt, he remembered his vow and duly fulfilled it. A church was eventually built there in 1859, and stands as a reminder that vows are not to be taken lightly.

You must think me mad…

Jekk trid taqra dan l-artiklu bil-Malti agħfas hawn.

You must think me mad. As you pass me by in your steel boxes you call ‘cars’. I admit, sometimes I feel self-conscious, especially if I’m walking on a main road with no pavements. Until I see you there, locked up in your luxury boxes, impatient and irate…and I feel better.

Please, don’t take offence, but sometimes I wish I could film you so you can see yourselves. Grey faces, eyes staring into the void, and that hurried look upon you as you dash from one cell to another. Yes – our concrete houses, our luxury restaurants, our shops full of ‘stuff’…nothing more than cells.

That is why I walk, to escape from this prison that we have built for ourselves.

I haven’t quite totally escaped…I still run around with my mobile phone snapping pics and uploading them online. Maybe it’s a force of habit…and maybe it’s the desire to share all that I see with you. Maybe…just maybe…you will also escape from your cell. Maybe I will no longer walk alone…

Would you like to know why we have lost our towns and villages? Why our houses have fallen prey to developers? Why our squares and pavements have been taken over by restaurants and cafeterias? Why our streets have become one giant parking lot?

Because we have abandoned walking, and our country is no longer ours. I walk the streets on a Sunday morning (or afternoon, or evening), and it’s deserted. And this on a beautiful Spring day! Even Sliema waterfront – you can see them walking from the car to the restaurant and back. A few steps, and they’re already tired.

You must be wondering, ‘What on earth is he on about? The Front is full of people! I’ve been to Dingli Cliffs, and there were many ramblers!’

Indeed, but how many of them are Maltese? You can spot the Maltese from miles. The car comfortably near…and generally carrying their kitchens, living rooms, and bedrooms. Because that is what we have been taught. Now that we are Independent, now we have stuff. And to show everyone how much ‘stuff’ I own, I’ll carry it with me everywhere. God forbid those in the car next to mine see me without a table, and chairs, and dishes, and plastic cups, and plastic plates, and plastic bags…

Plastic…most of it ends up in the countryside…

And I walk along alone. If I eat, I eat while walking. If I drink, I drink while walking. And if I smile…it’s because I’m walking.

You must think me mad…

L-Ewwel Pass

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Hemm ħafna raġunijiet għalfejn wieħed jagħmel pellegrinaġġ. Hemm min jagħmilha għal raġunijiet reliġjużi, oħrajna għal raġunijiet spiritwali, u ħafna oħrajn għall-gost tal-mixi. Forsi wieħed jaħseb li pellegrinaġġ hi xi ħaġa antikwata, speċjalment fid-dinja ‘progressiva’ tal-lum. Iżda l-istatistika turi mod ieħor.

Per eżempju, f’dawn l-aħħar 20 sena in-numru ta’ pellegrini li għamlu l-Camino kiber minn 20,000 għal 300,000 pellegrin fis-sena. U mhux biss il-Camino – hemm diversi rotot li wieħed jista’ jieħu. Uħud jieħdu ġimgħat, u oħrajn jieħdu biss ftit siegħat. Għax għall-pellegrin mhux il-ħin jew it-tul li jimporta, iżda l-iskop.

Ma niddejjaqx ngħid li għalija r-raġuni hi waħda spiritwali. Miniex nistenna xi epifanija spiritwali – nemmen li l-Fidi fiha iżjed xogħol iebes minn sempliċi mixja. Iżda hi l-hena li terġa tiskorpi d-dinja permezz ta’ saqajk, u tkun grat għaliha. Ridt ukoll nerġa niskopri dak il-mod ta’ trasport mill-iktar bażiku – dak li ġiegħel lill-bniedem joħroġ mill-Afrika eluf ta’ snin ilu u wassalna (bit-tajjeb u l-ħażin kollu) fejn ninsabu llum.

There are many reasons for a pilgrimage. Some do it for religious reasons, others for spiritual reasons, and many for the sheer joy of walking. Pilgrimage might seem an anachronistic activity, particularly in today’s ‘progressive’ Western world. And yet, statistics show otherwise.

U l-bżonn li nimxu qatt ma kien daqshekk urġenti daqs kemm hu llum. Hekk kif il-pjaneta tagħna riesqa dejjem iktar qrib diżastru klimatiku, u hekk kif iktar u iktar nies qegħdin jinqabdu f’dinja diġitali surreali u iżolata, il-mixi jsir att sempliċi ta’ ribeljoni u salvazzjoni.

Huwa att ribeljuż għaliex il-mixi jisfida kull sistema ta’ traffiku, u ma jiddependix fuq mapep jew teknoloġiji. Huwa wkoll sors ta’ salvazzjoni għaliex iħalli impatt ambjentali negliġibbli, u benefiċċji għas-saħħa, fiżika u mentali, enormi. Sew jekk ħa timxi waħdek jew man-nies, fl-aħħar mill-aħħar huwa int qed iġorr lilek innifsek fid-dinja.

Iżda pellegrinaġġ mhuwiex mixja kwalunkwe. Pellegrinaġġ hu mixja bi skop u destinazzjoni. Hemm min jaħseb li pellegrinaġġ huwa xi penitenza jew talba mqanqla, iżda xejn minn dan. Huwa att ta’ xi ħaġa li kważi tlifna: gratitudni. Fl-aħħar ta’ pellegrinaġġ wieħed iħoss hena u gratitudni.

Iżda hemm ukoll il-ħażin tagħha l-ħaġa.

Il-pellegrinaġġi jġegħluk taffaċja lid-dinja. Iġegħluk tħares ‘il barra u ‘l ġewwa. Tiltaqa’ ma’ barranin, u żżur irkejjen moħbija tad-dinja. Imbagħad hemm mumenti ta’ solitudni fejn trid taffaċċa x-xjaten ta’ ġo fik – u dawn ma tantx huma kumpanija tajba għall-mixi. Il-mixi iċekknek.

Karozzi pparkjati fuq iz-zuntier.
Knisja ta’ Sant’Antnin, Għajn Dwieli, Paola

Jien ukoll ġej minn pajjiż li mhux eżattament magħruf għal ħiliet sportivi tiegħu – Malta hi waħda mill-iktar pajjiżi għażżenin u ħoxnin tad-dinja. Hija ħaġa ironika meta tqis iċ-ċokon tagħna.Wieħed jista’ faċilment jaqsam il-pajjiż f’ġurnata bil-mixi.

Nittama li permezz ta’ dan il-blog sempliċi intom tiskopru wkoll il-ġmiel tal-mixi – jkunu xi jkunu r-raġunijiet għalfejn timxu. Ser nikteb dwar rotot, postijiet, u ideat. Ħa nipprova wkoll nikteb kemm bil-Malti kif ukoll bl-Ingliż ħalli jkun aċċessibli għal kulħadd.